The array of photos are not exactly in order of story that follows but I hope you will enjoy seeing them.New Jerry art

Happy Flag Day, celebration 211 years of Haitian Flag, May 18th 

I passed on this veve, and kind of regret it. 

Montana pool 

Playing Casino at the Iron Market

at the beach

Mini manifestation

Driving to Jacmel

Welcome to Jacmel

Refreshment

Boardwalk

Our guides and security- The Brothers Dade

Frandy, Jean Jean, Ti Wes

a little birthday celebration..

The top of the National Museum- no photos allowed inside.

arriving at Basin Bleu

Car wash and spa

My friend Beth whom I will miss very much and Karol

my mom

my brother

my baby boy

Be safe, I love you! 

Five months into 2014- time to write an update to my blog site. I just returned from vacation in Portland where I celebrated the birthdays of 2 of my now grown up kids, celebrated the life of my mother in law, visited my mom, caught up with friends (though not enough of them- sorry Jody and Linda)  and said see you in a year to my son being deployed to the middle east as security for cargo ships ala Captain Phillips-style.  A bitter sweet time to say the least. 

Back now for a few days, I’ve nearly caught up with work missed while away which sort of takes away from the fun of vacation doesn’t it? Upon arrival I found that Chikungunya fever has turned into an epidemic - many of our staff have had or are coming down with this nasty viral mosquito borne disease causing headache and joint pain lasting 2-3 days generally. I’ll try to protect myself and hope that I don’t get bit but I’m guessing they aren’t very discriminate as to who those stealth buggers bite. 

In the past 5 months since writing an update to my blog, I’ve had the good fortune to have many old friends / teams visit and made some new friends from far away places. I’ve said good bye to others as they have left, knowing their presence will be missed. One of my favorite things to do is show people the ‘other’ side of Haiti, to experience the cultural side of Haiti. The National Museum is interesting and beautiful, the Iron Market is a crazy fun place to find ‘bargain’ artisan crafts if you are a strong barterer and Champ Mas is full of statues that represent the country’s history. And of course there are the beaches!

We had a four day Easter holiday weekend and decided to head out of the city. We first visited one of my favorite places, Jacmel, a southern coastal city about a 2 hours drive on wind-y roads through a couple of mountain ranges. Jacmel is the sleepy, but charming little sister to Port au Prince. But she is waking up- the new ‘boardwalk’ along the sea is beautiful with its wide mosaic path beautiful in the glow of street lamps. The town square is being renovated to provide a hang out for friends. My friends and I stayed with the family of my driver and also visited their home in the mountains of Jacmel. Our gracious host, Lucienne fed us spaghetti for breakfast and kreyol chicken for dinner; we received fruit fresh off the trees to more than satisfy our thirst- the sweet tang of grapefruit called chadduk, juicy little mandarins, the creamy white flesh of corosol and coconut milk- after the hike up the mountain trail.

To wash off the heat of the hike, we bathed in the cooling waters of Basin Bleu.  Basin Bleu is actually a series of 3 fresh water ponds reflecting a true aqua from the sky. A guide takes you along the 15 minute trail to the final pond filled by the rushing waterfall cascading over the rock walls surrounding the grotto. My first visit to Bassin Bleu years ago, I was too afraid to jump from the rocks; apparently, I’ve become more adventurous because I jumped (not from the top of course) but it seemed high enough. 

The next day we went to the river to wash the van and bathe in the river- a totally Haitian experience. The river thought relatively small was just warm enough and fast enough to lay in and feel as if you were receiving a relaxing massage. We did block out the fact that there were probably more cars being cleaned, laundry and bodies being washed up river from us and just reveled in the moment.  The afternoon was spent at a beach with the local crowd, sellers of jewelry, and wooden carvings wanting us to bargain for a good price as we dined on the fresh fish, piklis and banane washed down with Prestige and Barbincourt. Later we shopped downtown for some of the paper mache masks that Jacmel is famous for. 

The third day of our road trip took us to Aquin for the annual Jazz Music Festival. We rented a couple of tents, relaxed on the beach before exploring the city square in search of dinner and then spent the evening enjoying some great music including Boukman Eksperyans.  Although the tents were not on the beach as they were the first time I came to Aquin, the sleeping mats were much better, a slightly more comfortable but less romantic than sleeping on the beach 20 feet from the sea. 

The next day we returned to Port au Prince, early enough to avoid the Rara bands in Leogane and to spend the late afternoon relaxing and reminiscing about our fun experience. 

Christmas time

December 2013

December: 

I moved back into the guesthouse November 30- No electricity - except the very long extension cord that connects a lamp from the clinic. No appliances connected in the kitchen, I have a small refrigerator in the clinic. I woke up early to prepare breakfast of cereal and tea before the clinic came alive at 7 am. Once everyone left for the day, I made dinner- salad or sandwich. Kind of like camping really. The guesthouse wasn’t  quite finished but as we were expecting board members and guests to arrive December 4th, the pressure was on. The staff came back to help clean- unfortunately for them, each time they cleaned something, the workers came back to create another ‘mess’. It had to be very frustrating for them but they were in good spirits and excited to prepare the new house for guests!  We did it with no time to spare- electricity connected on the 4th along with the gas line for the appliances. A trip to the store to buy food, unpacking furniture, beds made.  I don’t believe our guests really comprehended the amount of energy and work that took place in those 9 days prior to their arrival. Our staff rocked it. Our guests were surprised and pleased despite no art work on the walls. 

From the 9th, when everyone left, I was alone again. I discovered I don’t need a big kitchen to prepare meals.  Also, I’m a bit spoiled having someone to cook for me most of the time and I need to learn how to use a gas stove which I’ve always wanted. 

I met the owner of a little restaurant that was planning a Christmas party for children. He invited some of our ‘patients’ to participate if I would purchase the appropriate gifts. Since I had been given a donation for this purpose, I went Christmas shopping. The first place we went to was ‘out of my league’ price wise but at the second place, we went to I was able to purchase 10 gifts for the 10 children chosen by our staff. Our hope was that our children with some disability would participate with the other children in the games however I heard afterwards that only 3 of the children came with their parents but they did not integrate well.  I don’t know the age of the children that came or their disability but perhaps that was the reason. Integration is a key issue here for children and adults of all ages. Since the earthquake, everyone is related to, friends with or knows someone that survived an amputation of some degree. This type of handicap has certainly become less stigmatizing and with the number of persons with spinal cord injuries surviving, even as difficult as it can possibly be, most are finding they can be somewhat independent and continue to return to their communities with less fear. 

Its clear that we must continue to bring awareness and integration as well as accessibility so that all may participate in community activities and feel comfortable in doing so. 

When that happens, it will be a Merry Christmas to all. 

My Return to Haiti...24 Days of Busy

I arrived November 1st, greeted at the airport by friendly Red Caps and security police alike as if I’d been gone years instead of months. Each and everyone of them asking about my family and if they are well. Its hard not to feel all warm and fuzzy with a welcome back like that.  Or is that just the heat and humidity that making me feel hot and sticky?  Actually, I think I adjust easier to heat than cold so I’m feeling quite comfortable so far. 

A much different feeling though as I return to stay in a hotel instead of the familiar guesthouse we’ve come to know and love over the years.  I have a nice suite- 2 rooms with a bathroom, a TV, air conditioning, small fridge and stove. There is a pool. Within a short period of time, I realized that it isn’t much different than the guesthouse after all, everytime the power goes out, I am not the one running to start the generator (thankfully, since the power is going off and on a half a dozen times a day. I’ve run out of water a few times but that happened often enough. the air conditioner only works on city power so teases me  throughout the day with slightly less warm room, the TV receives no signal but I’m not used to watching tv here anyway so don’t think about it much. 

Internet is in and  out along with city power but only within certain distance of router and no cement to block the signal. One has to be tricky and alert not to miss the opportunity. 

The pool was empty when I arrived but they soon filled it as they have swimming lessons for about 30 kids several mornings weekly. The hotel is adding a section to  the end of the hotel so construction signals the start of my day. ATV’s racing down the road have replaced the roosters at similarly odd times of night and day. Well, actually, they just drowned out the roosters crowing...they are still crowing. 

Since I’ve been back I’ve picked up a team from Canda, went to Indigo Beach, visited the new PIH University Hospital in Mirabalais, toured the construction site of new guesthouse- it will be nice when finished....hopefully by the 22nd, and a happy reunion

 with my colleagues in the clinic. A team from Utah arrived on the 7th for 9 days, and I took them on a tour of downtown followed by a trip to Boutllier for lunch and up to Baptiste Mission.  I walked down to the ‘zoo’, a desperate name for what it is- to see how it faired the earthquake. My first and only other visit was in March 2009. The angry monkey, alligator and iguana were gone. A friendly goat, a beautiful but ragged peacock and many, many happy rabbits were all that remained. I’m hoping that monkey found a happy place and that the alligator is not roaming the streets somewhere. 

Mrs. Turnbull- aka Madam Wally saw our group and asked me to join her for coffee. She and her husband started the Baptist Mission and have lived here for years since 1946. She is a bit dotty and forgetful but pleasant and full of questions- barely pausing for me to answer. 

Utah left on the 16th and a team from Canada arrived the same day. As Monday the 18th was a holiday we traveled to les Cayes, and spend the afternoon at a beach in Port Salut, about an hour north of Les Cayes.  A bit cloudy, lunch took 2 and 1/2 hours to prepare but it was nice to have some relaxing time. The team provided an educational workshop to 16 persons from Les Cayes and Port au Piment over the next 2 days. We headed back to Port au Prince to repeat the workshop in our clinic. A couple of late nights of dancing later and the team left this morning. 

Its been a busy, very productive 24 days back. 

Progress is being made at the guesthouse and I can’t wait to get back there. I’m missing my familiar staff (and my dog). 

Magical Place

Tomorrow morning I will not wake up to the honk of Canadian geese, a rooster crowing or the cows mooing. 

I won't wake up to the sun rising over the fields of alfalfa. 

Tonight I won't fall asleep to the howl and bark of the  coyotes as the run through the meadow above the house. This morning we woke up to no electricity, no water ad 3 cows in the field. At first I thought I was in Haiti, definitely not in the city. But all order restored after about an hour and we had our coffee and buttermilk pancakes.  As always it's a little sad to leave my childhood home and say goodbye to my mother and elderly relatives (my aunts are about 87 and my uncle 91). I never get enough time with my brother and my cousins. Quality time is important when on limited time and long distance. 
I did get a few days of river time which is a favorite way for me to relax. We attended two weddings and a baby shower. Dan saw a bear, Andy caught a fish, Erin cleared a trail up on jumbo mountain. We had fresh peaches. 

I met Nicki in 2009. She is a therapist and came to Haiti on a medical mission. She was the grooms cousin and part of the wedding party. She lives in Minnesota. Now of course we meet here in Kettle Falls. In this small corner of the world we talked about Haiti so far away. People were surprised to learn of our connection and wanted to hear about it of course. The point here though is that she made a toast saying she heard about this 'magical place' on the river for a number of years but being from Minnesota and land of lakes didn't put too much stock in it. But she and other family members had to admit in August, in the heat of summertime there is no more magical place to be. 

Until next time, as always I have the sweet memories.
And on the way out of town, we picked up a box of fresh peaches.    

Haiti vs Portland

Writing about my journey in Haiti is more difficult when I am not there to be inspired to write.  Since my journey brought me back home to Portland in May, it’s very much a different life style. As I wrote before, purging and organizing is still going on- I guess 30 years of collecting (and living a normal life)  will take a little longer to sort than I expected.  Also, living on a reduced salary limits some activities so no excuses for not doing the sorting and organizing I can’t exactly do a kitchen remodel however much I’d like it. 

Ideally, I would be watching the guest house building progressing, not feeling concern for the well-being of our staff and hosting volunteers however I’ve been given a summer, a teachers summer if you will to enjoy family, participate in life events of 3 weddings,  catch up with friends’ lives,  renew my enjoyment of cooking. As I write this the mouth-watering aroma of dinner is filling the house. Chicken with pesto is roasting to be accompanied by fresh garden veggies- tomatoes and cucumbers and corn on the cob from the farmers market will be roasted on the BBQ.  Sounds yummy, doesn’t it?  My favorite has been spinach salad with blueberries, goat cheese, pecans and strawberry  vinaigrette- the perfect accompaniment to honey thyme pork chops, creamy garlic pasta or parmesan tilapia.  The guesthouse cooks make good meals, the food –especially fruit and vegetables are fresh so the difference is that I’m doing the cooking.

 

It’s been a perfect time to be in Portland. After the initial week of cold weather with my feet in socks and a space heater 6 inches away from me, I’ve adjusted to the weather. Ha, of course it helps to acclimate when it is 80+ degrees and nothing but sunshine. The few mornings we’ve had marine air haven’t been uncomfortable.  Walking to the farmers market, to the store or other places, gives me a sense of freedom I haven’t felt in a long time.  Most of the time in Haiti, I am with someone and rarely walk any distance to places.  Walking in Haiti requires some logistical planning. Rarely am I alone or at a place that I can safely walk other than on the property.  

 The point is change is inevitable and to embrace the challenges that come from change.  That has been my challenge. Given the opportunity of living in two countries so very different yet not so different, accepting the differences, and appreciating the value of the experience. 

Four Weeks Since Haiti

I've been home for 4 weeks now. I can't say that it has been an emotional or easy transition. I'm still the crazy cleaning lady and its not finished- not by a long shot. I'm still dealing with the shock and sadness of my dog dying.  I've visited my dentist and doctor. I've walked and I've shivered, I've sat in sunshine and next to the fire place. I went to my daughter's Portland State graduation. I've been cooking- and made some pretty tasty meals.  I got my computer repaired but lost all of my photos, music and documents. I'm still working on  attitude adjustment.
Monday we will drive to Kettle Falls to visit with my mom for a few days. Weather forecast calls for rain. Hopefully, that will change too.

Leaving Haiti

It was an emotional couple of weeks. Closing up the guest house- packing all of the household items to move to storage, telling the staff goodbye, leaving my dog with Andy all left me exhausted and tearful. I wonder where this emotional stuff comes from. I will be back in a few months when the new guesthouse is finished. I'm sure that it is an accumulation of emotions- probably years actually. I've decided that a break will be good for me and I should take time to reflect and reenergize. I will take time to re-connect with family and friends and enjoy the time together that coming for a week or 2 vacation does not allow. And I still have to do some work.

Reintegrating and adjusting:  After being away for the better part of 4 years, my Portland house is more like what you'd imagine a bachelor pad to be like. So while much of the first week at home was cold, gray and rainy, I turned into a crazy person wanting to get everything clean and organized. It wasn't enough that I could flip a switch without thought that a light would shine, that I could step into the shower and it would be hot and soothing. It wasn't in me to sit back a watch a basketball playoff game and relax. I worked through the emotions by purging more tangible touchable stuff. I went through closets and dressers, filling paper bags with clothes and stuff to give away. There are all kinds of books about organizing and storing, heck there is a television show about hoarding...but I'm pretty sure that I'm not going to get 30 years of accumulated stuff sorted any faster or easier than 4 years of Haiti emotions or vise versa.