Some days are harder than others, not just in Haiti

She lay on the ground, in the dirt on the corner of a street in the “wealthier” Petion-Ville. A straw hat partially shading her face from the intense sun beating down, she appeared asleep.  A soiled gauze bandage wrapped around her foot and ankle.  The older woman sitting next to her, legs holding a large half gourd, head bent, eyes staring at nothing and a hand stretched in silent plea.

Mom’s  pulling their children past appear not to notice her.  Does she lie there everyday? Is she ill or ill from malnourishment?   It did not feel good to keep on driving and I wondered if I would remember her as we continued down the hill.  At the end of the block, we paused as an elderly man with blue cataract eyes hobbled by with a pvc pipe for a cane.  He didn’t seem to be having a problem navigating the rubbly path that served as a sidewalk.   And we drove on.

As we passed the bank that I’ve sometimes used, the young woman with her baby caught my eye and held out her hand begging for some coins. Its her regular hangout as I’ve seen her many times.   The drive suddenly seemed to be in slow motion. Not just traffic insanity that has ruled the streets for weeks now.  I looked around at other people walking past- businessman in a smart suit leaving the bank along side young man with sagging jeans.  That could be seen on the streets in Portland. 

The homeless crazy girl with the rags she wears blackened like the charcoal being sold on the side of the road not much farther away. A sad contrast to the Christmas trees made of stark white branches stuck in cement  as she walks slowly past.

The shoulder of her shirt is torn and hanging , the jagged hem of her skirt barely reaches mid thigh.  Despite her appearance,  I’m happy to see that she is surviving somehow with some dignity as her back is straight and she holds her head high.  I’ve seen her often over the past 3 years, more often talking to her self and looking a little wild. My phone beeps a message received.

A message that children were killed in a school in Connecticut-  27 persons died; eighteen of them children.  Suddenly, the sky doesn’t seem so blue. The trees blurry as I gaze out the window of the car trying to comprehend why there is so much harshness in life. As we slow to make the turn to the road, I see the man who sits on the side of the road, his legs bent like a pretzel, he moves across the side of the road using his arms like legs.  We’ve offered him a wheelchair but I guess he feels he will make more money begging this way.  I’ve not forgotten the woman lying at the corner as we turn in the driveway down to our house.  My dog hops down the stairs, her leg in a cast to greet me, happy that I’m home again.  Sadness wins today. 

THANKSGIVING IN HAITI

What do I call this posting for November? A month of fun, foolishness, frustration and its not over...My pictures are not in order of all of this but maybe in order after all. 

Despite traffic insanity - there is no other name for it and manifestations (demonstrations) daily for the past weeks we've managed to keep our perspective and have some fun at the end of the day.  We sometime have to remind ourselves its important to keep a balance for our health. We have found ourselves going 'back' to work after dinner, to continue what we couldn't finish during the daylight hours.  

All Saints Day into AlI Souls Day started with Gedes celebration at Oloffson- the place to be on this night. You have to be prepared because it is a long night. and long wait for RAM to come to the stage. However, sometimes the crowd can be part of the show and the fun. We stayed until 3:30 because some of us still had to work the next day. 

But I will write around the photos...and start with the ring. Jake is an architect working for Msaada, a project manager of the cholera hospital being built north of Port au Prince. He has been here since July. His girlfriend has been waiting patiently in Minnesota and decided to come for a visit during Thanksgiving week.  Jake decided to propose...and here is the ring.

We had all week to help Jake plan how to and when to propose. We wrote a list on the white board...Should it be a romantic sunset at Boutillier or the Montana Hotel?  With the afternoon clouds coming in chances are it would be raining and Jake wasn't sure he wanted to wait. So we decided we would make it memorable in another way.  And involve some 'friends'   Waiting for Maria at the airport. 

We offered the Red Caps a Prestige if they would help us. Once they understood what was happening they were excited. We had 10 signs all with her name. They were quite cooperative and orderly- not quite the usual for them...

With Jake standing back against the wall when Maria came through customs, the men started chanting Maria, Maria and soon surrounded her as Jake came from behind, gave her flowers, went to his knee and proposed. The men cheered! She laughed and said yes!! 

Maybe a bit of shock and awe expressed in her face and obvious relief on Jakes' face but before we could begin to celebrate we had to go back inside to get her bag. Maybe the first proposal at the airport- At least for Hermann Demanche who is 77 years old and told me he had worked at the airport since 1934. He gave his sign to someone else but asked if I would still buy him a Prestige. 

The newly engaged couple- Jake and Maria

Driving to Jacmel for the funeral of Noel's mother. Driving in the country is a much different experience than driving in the city. Often for me much more nerve wracking.  There is less traffic, true but with the 257 curves over the mountain to Jacmel, you never know who will be passing on that blind curve in front of you. For distraction, I took some photos along the route. 

We see everything on moto's here. A dog on a moto is only extraordinary because its a dog on a moto. There are a lot of dogs in Haiti, ignored or abandoned in the street, or behind the cement walls guarding someones property, a few as pets.  We see all kinds of things being hauled on motos- including goats, chickens, pigs, cement, tv's, 3 passengers plus a driver- still seeing the boy with his dog made me smile. 

There are still so many tent communities- these actually look newer or in better shape than most especially after the rains and storms we've had. Hurricane Sandy and the after effects of flooding have added more devastation to the country this fall. Crops in so many areas were destroyed and will take at least a growing season to recover.  Food shortages and spikes in the cost of food are being felt by everyone, but so far I have been able to purchase the fruit and vegetables I need for the guesthouse without too much change in costs. I've been able to get the Haitian price instead of the blan price.  Now I am also getting a few gifts from some of the other merchants as they recognize me as a regular customer. The hope next time I will purchase from them. 

Swimming suits for sale next to the entrance of a beach. 

You can buy just about anything you might want on the street. 

One reason I'm nervous driving in the country is these big trucks...they just know you will get out of their way. The drivers are fearless. Too often too reckless unfortunately and someone can not get out of the way. 

Views are spectacular. 

Difficult to see there are 'stick' plants on this hillside that will grow roots strong enough, fast enough to stop soil erosion in the next rainy season. Too bad they are basically stick plants- they probably are never going to be beautiful leafy bushes. Hopefully, they won't become next seasons charcoal. 

Crest a hill, turn a corner and drive into rain. The wipers couldn't really keep up. 

But at least we were dry inside the vehicle. 

Gedes night...Oloffson. 

A Latina band provided some entertainment- singing, dancing at the beginning of the evening. 

                                        Jackie, Lissette and I with Ladege, resident voudou princess.

So as we enter Thanksgiving week, we here at the guesthouse do have a lot to be thankful for- the camaraderie of friends far away from family. We can appreciate the sacrifices made at both ends and be thankful for the support and love received. We will have turkey and mashed potatoes, stuffing and green bean casserole and pies. 

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO YOU ALL! 

Thankful in Haiti

Photos from my recent vacation: Portland, Bend, Spokane (lunch and visit with dear friend of years past), a trip to the farm to see mom in Kettle Falls.  Nearly 2 weeks of absolutely perfect weather. I believe I picked the best 2 weeks of the year to devote to family and friends. Thankful for that. 

 Spokane Falls

My friend, Anne

My brothers horse, Kidd stealing apples

autumn on the farm

Koi fish in our creek? 

Its raining...of course its rainy season, nearing the official end of hurricane season. Hurricane Sandy passed by to the south and west of us before it developed into its current cat 2 status. It hit Jamaica and is over western Cuba from what I've read. Its been raining quite steady now for about 20 hours; occasionally slowing for a bit, like its taking a big breath and then letting it out again.  The weather map shows a huge system over us and reports that this will continue through saturday.  I won't be surprised if thunder and lightening are added to the mix. We are so fortunate to have a nice roof over our heads. We don't have to go out to get food and water; we have electricity (inverter, generator and occasionally E'DH) and while it is on the coolish side, we are dry and safe. We hear and read of terrible flooding and mud slides in other parts of Haiti, people have drowned trying to cross the swollen rivers.   There are many Haitians- last report I read said 350,000 displaced persons from the 2010 earthquake continuing to live in tents and temporary shelter housing (meant to last 3-6 months).  Most are camping tents that people have covered with scraps of wood, tarps, rusty tin. When it rains, they leak, they flood. Its hard to imagine what they look and feel like when the rain is relentless...people are wet. soggy. cold. tired. worried. exhausted. angry. helpless. wearied. hungary. What does it take in a person to tolerate this kind of existence? strength. stamina. hopeful. hopeless. helpless. tolerant. God-fearing. blessed. 

Its one reality here in Haiti. 

Recently, I read a comment to a FB status post of a friend that was sitting in a coffee shop using the internet, in Port au Prince that sounded like my friend should feel guilty that she is able to do that- as if no one else in Port au Prince has the same opportunity and is fortunate enough to drink a cup of Rebo coffee and use a computer.  It actually made me angry. I don't know the person that made the comment; I don't know if  he had ever been to Haiti; Yes, sometimes I do feel guilty about what I have when often I see so much of what others do not have. I don't judge a person based on a FB status.  But when I see a Mercedes or a big yellow Humvee or a half dozen 4-wheel ATV's racing in the streets, I remember there are Haitian's with money. JUST like in the USA.  When a person walks into Starbucks, does he feel guilty that he is buying a $6 cup of coffee knowing there is a homeless person a half a block away? Does he feel guilty that the vast majority of people that work in Haiti make much less than the purchase of a cup of coffee in Starbucks.  Should he? Should I? Should my friend? Should you?   Its not simple to answer, is it?  I don't ask you to feel guilty about what you have. 

 I do ask that you be thoughtful. compassionate. caring. thankful.

 This is another another reality. 

I will ask you to vote November 6 with thoughtfulness. compassion. care. hope. tolerance. 

Driving in Haiti

As we drove to the airport this morning, traffic was being redirected into our lane...what? Sounds of sirens and ambulances' coming down the proper lane. Oh so there must be an accident. Nope,  but police posted at intersections and traffic still coming into our lane still did nothing to indicate the reason. Suddenly, we saw them- runners, mostly in red jerseys with white numbers across their belly. A marathon or run of some kind and we couldn't help but cheer for them. Being sunday the traffic wasn't bad despite the re-direction, but we decided we would return on a different route. No surprises along the way until....we met the runners. The lead runner, at least we assumed was being escorted despite not having a number. Others followed at a little distance behind. 

There is always something to see when driving in Port au Prince, or the countryside for that matter. Something that captures your thoughts, makes you giggle -or swear. Its rarely boring except when stuck  in a blockess that seemingly has no reason. With some of the schools opening, and with road work and demolition, that is enough in itself to create traffic jams. We did note that both routes to the airport had had road work done with potholes filled in- making a much smoother drive and quicker drive. The 10 mile round trip took about 40 minutes in spite of the marathon this morning.  Despite dodging church-goers and their fancy clothes, the market people carrying baskets on their head, dogs and motos that cut in and out of traffic. 

On one shortcut, we still see a small truck half buried in a collapsed house. We still see way too many temporary shelters- tents and tarps with the odd tin or plywood roof and doors. A few wooden t-shelters are interspersed among these. Political graffiti sprayed on to walls; ads pasted along side or over the words.  Billboards old and new announcing which band is playing at which club- we get excited to see who is coming until we realize it was last weekend, or last year.  We search the route looking for new Jerry art, wondering what his message will be. Beauty salons and lottos are on every block. Stacks of coke and big speakers blasting music sit along site tires, pepes (used clothing hanging on the walls), tv antenna's and mosquito nets, hardware and auto parts (Mapa), rice and little buildings selling clean bottled water, fruit and vegetables, paintings line the main streets; taking a shortcut has a few more potholes and bumps, fewer people and fewer markets but at about every corner someone has set up a stall to sell Barbincourt, Comme il Faut (cigerettes), maggi, canned milk and corn flakes. Perhaps a little  charcoal grill will be burning with corn on the cob and chicken or hot dogs sitting on the grill. 

Woman braiding a child's hair, a child braiding her sister's hair, men sitting at tables slapping dominos, the losers looking silly with clothes pins stuck to their face or arms.  Children running along pushing metal hoops, flying little Seran wrap kites or kicking a doll head in lieu of a soccer ball. 

Sunday mornings are quiet, the occasional beep of a horn interrupting the cricket and bird songs. As the  day wears on the sounds of the football game or kompas  from the bidonville will be our background music. Lately, every afternoon, we have thunder from the mountain. Last night, the lightning and thunder brought us a quick heavy rain.  At least for us, just enough to cool the air before going to bed. 

Last weekend we went up the mountain to Fort Jacques and Boutillier. Driving up the mountain is only different in that the higher you go, the more cooler the air. Refreshing...we had a guided tour of the old fort that sustained considerable damage from the earthquake but the rubble was cleared and there was still 'history' to see and our guide shared his knowledge in pretty decent english. He said he learned his english from listening to english speakers leading 'tourists' around the site. He had been giving tours for 6 years.  Boutillier is a look out area from which you can see the city of Port au Prince.  It is being fixed up with a bar and toilet; little shops have been built to replace the little rickety stalls that once housed the artists' work. The merchants want us to see everything and spend lots of money but weren't nearly as aggressive as they were the first time I visited this lovely vista. Its a very nice way to spend a few hours on saturday morning. 

Yesterday we spent the day at the beach. We arrived to a parking lot full of cars, including President Martelly's entourage of black SUV's.  With our somewhat late arrival, we fully expected the beach to be crowded but once inside (oh, the price for a day on the beach without buffet meal-$25 US.) Surprisingly, there weren't so many- it turns out that Martelly was in a meeting with the new CEP members, UN and other officials along with a corp of news people. Though there was security men posted throughout, they were unobtrusive and we wouldn't have even known anyone (official) was there.  It takes just under two hours to get to this beach, going through a half dozen small towns along the way and seeing a lot of country side- open areas of land along with plots of banana trees. People again carrying baskets of products or leading donkeys loaded with food stuff going to the saturday markets.  The road has been newly paved and except for one big bump makes for a fairly quick drive. Going to the beach (Indigo, anyway) is like going away on a mini vacation. Stress and work flow out with the tide.  The warm salt water is like getting a massage, but considerably less expensive. 

I think this is more of an out building thats sits above a second fort - Alexandre- which we did not go to.  A variety of canons from the French and British. 

This cistern is to catch rainwater and is 16 feet deep. 

This is the port to the secret tunnel that used to go to Fort Alexandre. The tunnel has mostly collapsed. 

Bread (or pizza?) oven

Noel hid in here ahead of our arrival to try to scare us...

The soldiers sleeping room.

Jake, Hadrien, Lissette, me and Noel

Our guide

The view across the city from Boutillier

Blue Moon over Haiti

Its hard to believe August is finished. Last day. End of summer?  Time to start new calendar. This is the first time I have spent the whole of August in Haiti. In general is was not any hotter than July- and actually somewhat cooler, but I do miss my summer trip to the river and hanging out with my cousins as we float around enjoying some Mike's Hard Lemonade. We started out the month with a house full of guests but ending with just 3 of us here. The tropical storm that threatened to become a hurricane caused cancelation of a couple of trips. Thankfully for us and for Haiti, the storm did not become a hurricane and cause the devastation it has caused in Louisiana, it did wreak havoc in Haiti. With still over 300,000 people without proper homes it caused enough damage to kill 24 persons, and disrupt lives and lively hood of many, many more. The government mobilized and found shelter for the most vulnerable yet homes and crops were destroyed.  We at the guest house had safe shelter and sustained no damage with this storm. We are the lucky ones.

I went to Canada this month to attend a board meeting but also was able to enjoy some rest and relaxation and see some good friends. Colleen and Jeff have been inviting me to visit for years to come to Fredricton, New Brunswick. As it is about as far from Portland as Haiti is, it didn't seem like it would happen.  Even though I have been going back to the states several times a year, it continues to strike me  the diversity I encounter every time.  The trees, the yards, the homes, the clean streets, the driving all still have an effect on me. It almost feels 'other worldly' and makes me sad for those that continue to struggle day to day.  I recently viewed a you-tube video of Haiti in the 1940's, with its clean, wide streets, so few people and cars, beautiful art deco buildings and neon signs flashing- ahh, they had electricity to light up the nights. It looked more like what South Beach might look like in the 40's but with street vendors selling their mangos and coffee beans. Will Port au Prince ever be able to rise to that  level again? Port au Prince, the cosmopolitan city of Haiti, of developing nations, needs to fill a few 'potholes' to get there.

Our prosthetics and orthotics workshop opened this month, filled with our staff and with students enrolled in the University of Don Bosco long distance training program.  Its good to have our staff back   and activity in the workshop.

The beginning of autumn.  Here there isn't much of a change from season to season. No trees to change color. Hurricane season picks up its threats. School will be starting up again soon which means traffic increases and children in their colorful checked school uniforms, the little girls with matching hair ribbons and little boys with shiny shoes will be once again walking to and from their school.

Tonight is a full moon, actually a Blue Moon- which we won't see again for 3 years. I'm hoping for clear skies tonight. No storms on the horizon, no howling, just appreciation for the universe.

Cultural Pride of an Independent Nation

Titled "Fertilization" 

 Evidence of roof damage after the sudden but thankfully short storm that hit us July 16. A palm tree from the neighbors yard crashed down upon the dining room. I was actually glad that it did not hit our little chevy van.


I might get the hang of this different layout...maybe. I'll write more at the bottom following the photos (randomly added).

Tomb of Presidents

This is the ceiling over the tomb. From the outside it sits center of water feather.  See photo of the guys. 

Hadrien, Jake and Andy

"Life"

One of my favorites of course...

Jenna and Tasha

Water feature and "domes" on roof of  National Museum

Statue art

Entrance of National Museum d'Haiti

The visit to the National Museum of Haiti was a wonderful surprise. From the outside, and up several sets of stairs was a water feature with 5 tiled domes and a larger one in the center. Upon entering, the 'guide' told us, with obvious pride, the museum was divided into 3 parts.  The first part being the 'crypt' of the first 3 presidents of Haiti. Beautifully designed with the crest of Haiti in gold and surrounded by pillars, the ceiling tiled in brick, we realized it was the center dome from above providing the light. 

From there to the left, the guide told us was the early history of Haiti- the arrival of Christopher Columbus and from there he let us ooh, ahh and gaze at the artifacts of the past 200 years.  The anchor of the Santa Maria sat at center of one of displays. Is it really?  

The 3rd section of the gallery consisted of paintings in different mediums.  I took photos of some of my favorites but there were some strange ones that drew our attention. We could not really wrap our minds around them. The gallery itself was beautifully designed and could have been anywhere in the world.  This is just another example of Haiti at its best. I was fortunate enough to visit the National Palace in  2009 (see old blogs for photos).  The thing is every country has its poor, its slums, its problems.  So why would Haiti be any different.  Its a small country with a big population of extremely poor people that do deserve to be lifted up.  Unfortunately, their national pride isn't enough.  

That night we watched an old movie- 1492 - about Christopher Columbus' voyage to the Caribbean Islands, including Haiti. It was long and actually quite boring.  I would like to see the newly released movie "Toussaint Louvature" which I've heard is a very good historical film of the early history of Haiti's Independence.