Saturday, October 8, 2011

Saturday in Port au Prince, Haiti.

I woke to the sounds of workers below my house as they arrived to work about 7 a.m. What was I dreaming about…..oh George Clooney. I think I was in some sort of action movie…we were driving – rather weaving in and out of very fast traffic. Hmmm, not sure why it was George Clooney but then again why not.

The plans for the day included usual stop at the market but first a trip to the Iron Market – Mache Faire or Hippolyte. This is a big market, rebuilt by Digicel since the earthquake and is full of aisle of artisans and crafts for sale. There are 2 sides as you drive into the parking lot. On the left is a food market and on the right crafts.

But first we had to get there. Jorel was our driver and we attempted to tell him where we wanted to go. I say attempted because as we drove downtown and he pointed to a grocery store. No, we didn’t want that market, we wanted the iron market, you know the one you took Jeff R and Ti Chat to. For the next 15 minutes, we drove past the National Palais and in circles until the next stop was a museum (closed). No Jorel, the big Iron Market where all the artists are. I made a call to Noel, another trip around downtown, another call to Noel and then a call to Antonio. “Please help us explain to Jorel where we want to go. Thank you.” An AHA moment later, we were on our way through a crowded market street.

I have not been to the Iron Market before. I’d heard it was crowded, dark, and sellers aggressive. However, I’d been told since it was rebuilt it was much better. Fiona had gone down one day when I was on vacation this summer and quite liked it. As we entered a man greeted us in English. His name was Ti Jean. He said he would help us get good prices. Well at least he was very pleasant and helped us when we needed communication assistance and answered our questions. We walked aisle after aisle finding just the right things to buy. My intention was to purchase some Christmas presents. And I did, so I cannot describe them just now. But I was also very attracted to a large painting asking price $500 USD. Not happening. Its very good to have limited funds…I could have, probably would have bought a couple of paintings. Those of you that have been reading my blog since the beginning may remember the first ‘pet’ I had in Haiti. A small turtle- toti- that I was given by Ti Chat. The turtle came from the Iron market for $1. We saw more turtles of all different sizes but I refrained from buying one (at least this trip) as I’ve not had particularly good luck with turtles in terms of keeping them alive. I thought turtles were supposed to live a very long time. Well, mine didn’t. Half of the market is all kinds of art; the other half is filled with an assortment of voudou potions, lotions, icons, idols and flags. Whatever you made need, you can find. Quite fascinating really. People were kind, friendly, helpfull for the most part. A few ignored us but no one was really aggressive. We finished our ‘tour’ of the market and as we wove our way back through, making our purchases. I did purchase the painting for a substantially lower price of 4000 gds instead of 20000 gds. (sounds like a better deal when written in terms of gourdes vs. USD.)

Leaving the market parking, Jorel drove through a street thick with market vendors honking his horn and patiently waiting for people to clear room for us to drive through. There may have been a better route but for people that know Jorel know that if it’s a shorter route and he can keep moving forward, that is the direction we will take. But our plan was to go to Deli Mart on Delmas 33. Jorel began driving in a direction indicating he didn’t know where we wanted to go, I kept asking him and he kept confirming that he knew where we wanted to go and we eventually turned north and took the road that took us to Deli Mart. He thought he was very clever in avoiding the horrible traffic on Delmas and indeed he was.

Andy bought supplies to make a pie tomorrow. Fiona bought basketballs for the Wheelchair basketball team and Sandra bought a few snacks and I bought some spinach and artichoke dip and a baguette for our lunch.

On the way home, we cheered the fact that 22 months after the earthquake, a car that was smashed in the earthquake had finally been removed. It was a reminder every time that we drove past. Oh I’m sure many cars were smashed and I’ve seen them in yards and roadsides but for some reason, that this one is now gone is some how symbolic that everyday changes are happening in the city. News people often report that after year and a half, nothing has changed. I guess it is all in the reporting and what sells. Of course there are changes. Small and big, subtle and in your face changes. Haiti has a new Prime Minister this week. Finally. Maybe, just maybe, we will see more in your face changes.

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