Last night Andy and I made a lemon meringue pie. I love lemon pie, but they do not have lemons in Haiti; they do have lemon flavored instant pudding. Sometimes you use what you have. We also didn’t have a pie plate- they don’t make pies in Haiti. Andy made a mean looking piecrust. And I actually mean it literally! It kind of melted off the side of the pan (which was a skillet). We were cracking up laughing but in the end in didn’t look too bad. We also got a new (temporary) cook and it was her first evening with us. I’m pretty sure she thought we were a little crazy, however, in the end she said our pie was very good.

We attended our first Special Olympics event on Monday held in Ganthier, about an hour east of Port au Prince. With much excitement, we invited 3 of our spinal cord injured friends to attend with us. Andy and I went to Rebo’s (coffee shop) and purchased deli sandwiches and juice for a ‘picnic’ lunch.

Upon arrival, our first mission was to determine accessibility and searched for a toilet… over a cement barrier, up 3 steps, 100 yards up a rubbled pathway, lift the wheelchair up a 2 foot step, down a narrow walkway to discover the ‘toilets . Funded with money from our own tax dollars. The picture says it all.

After the usual opening speeches, we expected the games to begin….but while we waited we visited with Madam Lucille Charles (a nurse and lawyer and the President of the Haitian Nurses Association) and with Mr Jean Sanon Chevalier (President of the Special Olympics and Paralympiques and former / original Haitian board member of HHH.

Unfortunately, it was not very well organized and few events – a pick up game of wheelchair basketball, a ping pong game and a couple of amputee foot races later our friends we ready to leave. As there were well over 100 disabled children and young adults in attendance all I could think about was planning next years Olympics! Our picnic didn’t happen either.

This young man had very good balance- We thought he could use a challenge of an obstacle course to show off his skills. Yep, these are the w/chair accessible toilets.

A very high step to reach the toilet area...
after traversing this path.

The Healing Hands team meets the president of the Special Olympics.

Today we had another adventure. We took a charter flight to Cap Haitian to deliver wheelchairs and return with several of our SCI (spinal cord injured) recipients that went up last week for a jewelry making class. We were able to tour the rehab center at Haiti Hospital Appeal. Tomorrow is move in day with about 20 patients receiving comprehensive rehabilitative care. The first in-patient center in Haiti! Congratulation to Haiti Hospital Appeal, to Carwyn and Reninca Hill and all involved in making this happen.

Andy, Fiona and I ride in the back of the truck with a load of wheelchairs being delivered to the new rehab center.
The Citadelle from the air.A very happy Jorel joins our adventure.

Saturday in Port au Prince, Haiti.

I woke to the sounds of workers below my house as they arrived to work about 7 a.m. What was I dreaming about…..oh George Clooney. I think I was in some sort of action movie…we were driving – rather weaving in and out of very fast traffic. Hmmm, not sure why it was George Clooney but then again why not.

The plans for the day included usual stop at the market but first a trip to the Iron Market – Mache Faire or Hippolyte. This is a big market, rebuilt by Digicel since the earthquake and is full of aisle of artisans and crafts for sale. There are 2 sides as you drive into the parking lot. On the left is a food market and on the right crafts.

But first we had to get there. Jorel was our driver and we attempted to tell him where we wanted to go. I say attempted because as we drove downtown and he pointed to a grocery store. No, we didn’t want that market, we wanted the iron market, you know the one you took Jeff R and Ti Chat to. For the next 15 minutes, we drove past the National Palais and in circles until the next stop was a museum (closed). No Jorel, the big Iron Market where all the artists are. I made a call to Noel, another trip around downtown, another call to Noel and then a call to Antonio. “Please help us explain to Jorel where we want to go. Thank you.” An AHA moment later, we were on our way through a crowded market street.

I have not been to the Iron Market before. I’d heard it was crowded, dark, and sellers aggressive. However, I’d been told since it was rebuilt it was much better. Fiona had gone down one day when I was on vacation this summer and quite liked it. As we entered a man greeted us in English. His name was Ti Jean. He said he would help us get good prices. Well at least he was very pleasant and helped us when we needed communication assistance and answered our questions. We walked aisle after aisle finding just the right things to buy. My intention was to purchase some Christmas presents. And I did, so I cannot describe them just now. But I was also very attracted to a large painting asking price $500 USD. Not happening. Its very good to have limited funds…I could have, probably would have bought a couple of paintings. Those of you that have been reading my blog since the beginning may remember the first ‘pet’ I had in Haiti. A small turtle- toti- that I was given by Ti Chat. The turtle came from the Iron market for $1. We saw more turtles of all different sizes but I refrained from buying one (at least this trip) as I’ve not had particularly good luck with turtles in terms of keeping them alive. I thought turtles were supposed to live a very long time. Well, mine didn’t. Half of the market is all kinds of art; the other half is filled with an assortment of voudou potions, lotions, icons, idols and flags. Whatever you made need, you can find. Quite fascinating really. People were kind, friendly, helpfull for the most part. A few ignored us but no one was really aggressive. We finished our ‘tour’ of the market and as we wove our way back through, making our purchases. I did purchase the painting for a substantially lower price of 4000 gds instead of 20000 gds. (sounds like a better deal when written in terms of gourdes vs. USD.)

Leaving the market parking, Jorel drove through a street thick with market vendors honking his horn and patiently waiting for people to clear room for us to drive through. There may have been a better route but for people that know Jorel know that if it’s a shorter route and he can keep moving forward, that is the direction we will take. But our plan was to go to Deli Mart on Delmas 33. Jorel began driving in a direction indicating he didn’t know where we wanted to go, I kept asking him and he kept confirming that he knew where we wanted to go and we eventually turned north and took the road that took us to Deli Mart. He thought he was very clever in avoiding the horrible traffic on Delmas and indeed he was.

Andy bought supplies to make a pie tomorrow. Fiona bought basketballs for the Wheelchair basketball team and Sandra bought a few snacks and I bought some spinach and artichoke dip and a baguette for our lunch.

On the way home, we cheered the fact that 22 months after the earthquake, a car that was smashed in the earthquake had finally been removed. It was a reminder every time that we drove past. Oh I’m sure many cars were smashed and I’ve seen them in yards and roadsides but for some reason, that this one is now gone is some how symbolic that everyday changes are happening in the city. News people often report that after year and a half, nothing has changed. I guess it is all in the reporting and what sells. Of course there are changes. Small and big, subtle and in your face changes. Haiti has a new Prime Minister this week. Finally. Maybe, just maybe, we will see more in your face changes.

Future of Haiti

I don't really remember the very first time that I met this very special person but it didn't take us long to become friends. When I was here in 2009 for 6 months, he was often the one I called first when I needed a friend. I returned home in July of that year, and 2 months later, he came to live with my family. He has become a member of our family, easily, comfortably; our son, our brother. His name is Ewald Estanis. He was born in Haiti, March 17, 1985.

This blog is an interview I had with him....I would not be surprised if he became the Prime Minister of Haiti one day.

Where are you from?

I’m from Les Cayes; it’s in the South of Haiti and the third city of the county.

Work back ground? Favorite job?

I’ve been working as Radio Announcer since I was 14; I worked as an operator of data for the Organization of American States, translator for Healing Hands for Haiti and Administrative Assistant for the United Nations in Haiti.

Favorite job was working for the United Nations because of the diversity within the organization.

Where are you now?

Portland, OR - USA

What are you doing?

In school double majoring in Business Management and Law

What are your plans this year?

To take more classes and done with my AA degrees by winter term and finish writing my first book to have it published by summer 2012.

What are your long term plans / goals?

I’m hoping to get some more education and explore possibilities that I can bring back to my country. I will focus on doing business especially international trading with Haiti and other countries especially the US. This will create jobs and help many families to be able to send their children to school. I will also focus on education by looking for way to create a college or university like those in the US. I also have desire to run for office in the future, who knows.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

In 10 years?

In five years, I’ll be working hard to reach my goals. Finding my ways and start my projects.

In 10 years, I see myself as a very successful business and entrepreneur, an instructor and a humble citizen who’s giving back to his community.

How do you like Portland?

I love Portland and it will always be my second home.

How does it compare with Haiti?

Portland is very different from Haiti but in some aspect, they’re similar. PDX is a quiet town and in some ways it reminds me Les Cayes. It has a lot of great things to explore and the people around here are very friendly. The trees in Portland remind me of the south of Haiti and Roses parade reminds me of carnival or Haitian flag day.

What do you miss most about Haiti?

I miss the culture a lot, the people and my family.

What are some of the highlights of your stay in Portland to date?

The education here is very good. Portland is a very clean city and the pollution is totally inferior comparing to many places that I have been.

If you had to leave Portland today, what would you miss the most?

I will miss my second family who’s in Portland. I’ll miss the clean fresh air and all the fun and crazy times (Don’t even want to mention what they are, lol)

If you could choose any place in the world you wanted to visit it would be? Why?

It will probably be Italy especially Venice. I love the Italian culture, the way they dress and the language which I hope to learn in the near future.

If you could choose any place in the world to live it would be? Why?

I would choose my hometown Les Cayes. It’s a quiet city and there’s a lot that can be done in tern of business and investments. It has many opportunities for economic growth and development for the country.

What is your favorite food?

I love Haitian food of course but I really enjoy Italian food around here

What is your least favorite food?

With no offence, I don’t really like Vietnamese food, at least the ones I have tried.

What do you like to do for fun?

Reading, writing, basketball, soccer and going to the gym

What would you like people to know about you?

I’m just what they see. I like going straight to the point. I respect everyone but I’m afraid of no one.

What are you most proud of?

I’m proud of where I come from and my experiences in life because they help me grow with a better perspective about life especially not to take things for granted.

Belo or T-Vice? T-Vice

Wyclef or Sweet Mickey? Wyclef

Favorite non-Haitian music? RnB

Favorite Haitian music? Pou Haiti (Nou 2)

Carnival or Rose Parade Carnival? Carnival

Person you most admire? Why?

It would be my father for the man he was. I’m who I’m just because of him. With his life, he motivates me to always try to do better and never forget where I come from.

Favorite quote?

“The only time you should look down on a person is when you are helping them get up” - Jessie Jackson

Favorite color?

Black but I generally have no preference as soon as it looks good on me.

Favorite clothing?

That’s a hard one, lol… I would say it’s kind of a mix of Haitian, French, Italian and American style.

If you had a million dollars, what would you do with it first, second and third?

1. Keep going to school and give that same opportunity to my siblings

2. Start my business to create jobs in my country and help my family as well

3. Open a language institute for kids in my hometown les Cayes

What do you see as the most important thing Haiti needs to move beyond its current state of being?

I think the most important thing we need for right now to start investing in the youth of this country. We need to educate our children because they represent the future of this nation.

Thank you for answering these questions. Please feel free to add any information that readers would find interesting; thoughts you would like to share.

You are very welcome. Respekte!

Changes in Haiti - Big and Small

Belo poster from my friends. Love this band.

Building progress...looking more like a clinic each week. Pictures from 19 August

Gracie, nick-named 'Protocol' by Haitian construction boss.

Beginnings of stairway to basement level

Villa Taino restaurant, near Grand Goave

Taino Beach (before crowd arrived)

Matchbox van, our new Ti Chou (mini me van) arrived 26 August

While its easy to get through traffic, one must remain alert to holes in the street lest we get lost in one.

me with Al Ingersoll

Change happens...eventually. We can see progress on the building site each week. Some weeks it may seem more subtle but none the less it is exciting to see. Hopefully, this week they will pour some more cement. This particular job is a week behind due to difficulty in getting cement delivered apparently.

Driving through the city, we often see new building in progress whether it is clearing a site of rubble, rebar spiking the air or walls in place where last week was rebar. Its exciting to see as well, giving hope that this is true progress but we know differently when just down the road lies a tent community. The tents are worn, torn, or in a few houses adorned with wooden doors, tin roofs or walls scavenged from some source by appearance of rust and what you would expect to see after nearly 20 months of living here (IF you can imagine yourself living in such conditions). As with any home, everyday you try to make improvements with what you have. If your home is near trees or water source (rarely) you might even feel middle class. What Haitians feel I can only suggest; I know I would feel bitterness that the government is slow to form; fearful for my family and home with each report of tropical storm pending; terrified in the dark that our home may be invaded; my heart breaking that I can not give my children enough to eat...these are just some of my fears that I would have on a daily basis. I am also sure that it is the same in all parts of the world -whether ravaged by storms, war or drought.

I also know how fortunate I am, my family is, my friends are. I know things can change in a moment, an unexpected instance - its an everyday thought and everyday I'm thankful that yesterday wasn't one of those moments for me, or my family or my friends. We deal with the bumps along the way, but how we deal with the big changes remain to be seen.

Haiti needs change- its a big picture thing. I believe it has to start with those in charge, the government. One might say the people are the government but in Haiti it doesn't not seem so easily identified by the people in the street. Its more likely the top 5% of the population that wants to be in control. I think its true that you can't change another person, only your own reactions to that person. Typical Haitians may react with manifestations or negative ambiguity and they don't truly feel that anything will ever change. It comes with a 200+ history.

We can only hope that the small changes will lead to big changes that Haiti needs. Unfortunately, these kind of changes don't happen in an instant.

Healing Hands for Haiti

I don't cry often but occasionally I will hear a story that causes the flood gates to open. Although my back ground is nursing, and for years worked in rehab, since being in Haiti, I've done just about everything but nursing most of the past 18 months that I have lived in Haiti. On this day, Fiona came home from work to tell me that she had been in the community to see a few of the spinal cord injured patients that can not make it out of their homes to visit the clinic. The young man she told me about was not injured in the earthquake but shot by a person who stole his motorcycle. The bullet passed through his chest, missing his heart but severing his spinal cord. He has been unable to leave his home since leaving the hospital due to the lack of accessibility. He lives on a steep hillside, many narrow stairways and rubble filled passages that are difficult for strong healthy people to navigate. Imagine living in a small room, minimal if any electricity and no running water. Its not hard to understand why he is very distressed and depressed, completely dependent on his wife for his most basic needs. Before the earthquake, few people with spinal cord injuries survived their initial injuries, most received from motor vehicle accidents, gunshots or falling from trees. Those that did were taken home, confined and dependent on families to meet their care needs. With little knowledge of what this involved, they did not live long. Since the earthquake, specialized care for spinal cord injuries has been available from surgeons who stabilize the spine to nurses and therapists who train the caregivers how to deal with the individual needs of each person. This care has decreased the mortality and morbidity rates like never before. There are over 200 spinal cord injured patients in our data base surviving and living in the county and Healing Hands for Haiti clinic is providing follow up care to over 50 of these. Healing Hands for Haiti has one of only a handful of Physical Rehabilitation doctors in the country seeing these patients. We have hired a nurse who is in a wheelchair. Having survived her spinal cord injury, she is an excellent peer support and trainer. We have peer support meetings for patients and their families each month. We are searching for funding to help provide transportation to the clinic for medical care and therapy (we have received a grant through the generosity of Haiti Hospital Appeal). We are searching for ways to help them earn a new living. we are fighting the battle for inclusion and accessibility. For this young man, it may be a battle to late and for this reason, I feel incredibly sad.

But Healing Hands for Haiti (Klinik Kay Kapab) staff, with tremendous effort and much credit to Fiona, Dr. Moise, Nadege, Nadia, the therapists, nurses and volunteers, has provided care and education to the injured and their families and care givers, including nurses, techs, and physicians in the community. We have to feel proud of the success of what we have accomplished to date and secure in the knowledge that more people will survive their injuries due to this dedication to provide excellent standard of care and continuing education for the most vulnerable in Haiti.

Our hope is that the new clinic will be opened by early spring (see pictures below- we are about halfway to completion). While I don't know how long I will be in Haiti, its really why we are there. To fight the battle for those that can't. I think it is why Fiona and Al are there too. We deal with day to day frustrations and stress, to do what we can to see that all men, women and children have a better chance for a life beyond mere existence.

A couple of weeks ago, Fiona and I had the opportunity to attend a home exhibition show. Last year a contest was opened to provide and opportunity to design homes for Haitians. It was supposed to open last fall but like a lot of things, it didn't. We walked through dozens of houses of different designs- of course, we were looking at each in terms of accessibility and asking the important questions. We didn't bother looking at the houses that had more than 2 steps to enter the house. There were several that were elevated, no doubt to appeal to those living in flood prone areas but obviously not suited to wheelchair users and even difficult for people who have suffered a stroke. Hopefully, our inquiries spurred some thought for those architects, engineers and builders that were hoping to win the design contest. But it was more than that as a couple of presidents were in attendance as well- Former US president, Bill Clinton and current Haiti President Michel Martelly. Despite the obvious and not so obvious security, we trailed along and even worked our way through the crowds to get up close to be part of the paparazzi! All in all, it was a pretty fun day to skip work! We learned that plans have been made to begin building 3600 new homes in the weeks following the home show.

We are always surprised to learn that we can find just about anything a person needs in Haiti. I'm hoping we can make some renovations to the guest house and one of the things that has interested me is to have a water filter to protect the pipes coming into the house. After talking to someone at the home show, I actually found out that there is something available and suitable in Haiti that will do the job and for a very reasonable cost. This could potentially save us from replacing shower heads and decrease a lot of other plumbing problems we have because of the heavily sedimented water running through our pipes.

All of this is to say that there is much hope for building back Haiti better. The are still a lot of difficulties ahead- Martelly's second candidate for prime minister has been rejected; thousands of people remain living in tents in the worst conditions; hurricane season is headed into full speed ahead and most of the promised aid money has yet to be distributed but we have to see that hope is there, we have to believe that the promises made will be kept to have the strength to keep taking the steps to the future.

a new business- building TapTaps to rent, the Haitian version of an RV. These small buses are very colorfully painted and are even set up to have a TV and a toilet for those longer trips or heavy traffic days!
They look like a decent alternative but the seats are made for little people.
Progress is being made on the HHH physical rehabilitation clinic.
Gracie left her footprint(s) in the cement. No one really cared since it will be covered but as she is a daily visitor to the site checking on progress and joining the workers at lunchtime it seems appropriate.



Wheelchair ramp...



On site supervisor.

Haiti's president Michel 'Sweet Mickey' Martelly. Photo taken at the Home exhibition show.

This one was my favorite.

This one had a very nice interior....
The kitchen was beautiful.

Former president Clinton visited the home show with President Martelly.
Martelly, surrounded by some key people...his body guards.
Not sure who the helicopter belonged to- it wasn't the president- and I took the picture for my friend Cory.
The view coming home...to Portland.
The view from one of our favorite places for watching the sun set over Port au Prince.