Monday, April 25, 2011

April, an uneventful month in Haiti- not so much.

We stopped for a mango on the way home and was offered dinner...
River crossing near Grand Goaive.
I anticipated April to be an 'uneventful' month since we had few volunteers scheduled to come. I was wrong. One day I went to the store to pick up some food for Mikes' birthday dinner and went to my room to put some things away and heard a loud pop...wondering what it was I went back into the room to see that my surge protector near my bed had caught fire! yikes! Fortunately, I had a fire extinguisher! Years of training at the hospital served me well. Yet, I couldn't help but think that I rarely go to my room during the day and had I not gone...well, I'd rather not think about it.

During the demolition of the driveway, we discovered the sewer pipes had disintegrated over the years so had those replaced. A week ago we had a rain storm that undermined the small patio causing about a third of it to cave in, breaking the water pipes in the process. Replace pipes, check.
Two days later another huge rain and my office was completely flooded with about 6-8 inches of dirty muddy water. I was in awe that so much water could get under the door in such a short time. This gave pause to those who live in tents must contend with during each rainstorm- a worn out tent is very poor barrier for that much force of water. I honestly don't know how they cope with it. And rainy season is just beginning.
Also a week ago, we apparently had a surge of power and since then several fans, our time clock, and 2 computers have not worked. The new washing machine quit working. Its always something whether big or small. Power outages, broken pipes, etc are relatively easy to deal with when you have a solid roof and access to food without worry. We also have the option of taking some time to relax when the opportunity presents itself.

Since most of Haiti had a 4 day holiday for Easter, we too took advantage and went to Aquin, a small city in south of Haiti. They were having a music festival so we made arrangements to rent tents and take off for a couple days. Since I had to be back on Saturday for a meeting, we stayed just 2 days. Our tents were right on the beach so we just had to walk about 25 yards into the sea. Fiona and I helped some fishermen pull in their nets. After about an hour of pulling, we we got this huge net close in enough for the men to start pulling the fish out and into a boat. They sorted some of them- shrimp from the dozen or so different types of fish, a dozen or so crabs and still the catch did not fill up a 10 gallon bucket. Eight fishermen (and 2 girls-us) hauled on that net for such a little bunch of fish. It brings home to us everyday how hard Haitians have to work to survive on a daily basis. In the afternoon, we went into town and walked around the square where the music would be later in the evening and decided to hang out at Wanda's Bar and Resto. We discovered Wanda is a very good cook! Of course we were hungry but we had cabrit (goat) and seafood, plenty of Prestige to wash it all down and front row table to people watch, view the parade of RaRa bands, and entertain the kids...it doesn't take much when you are one of the few blancs in town. We passed the afternoon playing cards and listening to the music blasting at the back of the room, entertained by the dozen or so men drinking, singing, dancing and generally having a very good time. We apparently picked the hot spot in town, judging by the numbers of people stopping by to greet others.
The music included a group of woman drummers from Cuba, a New Orleans jazz band and BelO, a very popular Haitian group that is now my new favorite! They were all fabulous! A surprise guest musician, Kali from France (actually Martinique) was a bonus treat! He had dreds to his knees! He plays a 10 string banjo like no one else.
We left the next morning, Fiona driving and Jorel the co-pilot for the almost 4 hour drive home. We stopped at Giant market to purchase our Easter breakfast and dinner- cheeseburgers and a variety of snacks. A good way to end a brief holiday from work.


Relaxing on Easter- pool chairs were a birthday present from Utah team.
Healing Hands for Haiti Klinik Kay Kapab Management team, minus Al who was in U.S. We had a 3 day workshop on team building.
Occasional evening distractions include Rummikub or Casino.
Martelly kites sold on the street...
Slight disaster after rain storm; next to my office is a small patio. The cave in broke water pipe so house guests woke up to no water for showers.

cement is being poured on site of new physical rehabilitation center for HHH. We are scheduled to open March 2012. Will post progress....
Another site view -
and another site view...of the sea near Aquin, southern part of Haiti.
View from my tent....
Pouring concrete for new drive way.

Memorial at Montana Hotel, sight of many of our sunset visits.
Easter breakfast, scrambled eggs, lox and bagels. Who knew you could get smoked salmon from Norway in Haiti! yum!
Karibe Hotel patio, another nice way to spend a couple of hours.
Another view of sea from tent, all sand beach and water clear and warm!

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

King of Kompas to President of Haiti- Martelly Wins

A lot of news articles have been written in the days leading up to the announcement and since...not so long ago, the same was thing was happening in the US. I don’t know that President Obama ever had such a wild streak as the man to become the next president of Haiti. But he will try to bring about change too. For better or worse, the people spoke.


We heard cheering as if we were in the center of a stadium. Beyond the walls of our property, people will shouting for joy, singing for joy and playing their carnival horns. Cars in the street were honking- not in the usual manner of I’m passing or I’m here but for happiness of the news heard over the radio that Michel ‘Sweet Mickey’ Martelly, the kompas king of Haiti was elected president of Haiti. We were smiling too, knowing had it gone the other way, we wouldn’t be hearing these sweet sounds of victory but the sounds of civil war in the city of Port au Prince and through out the country.


Its not the official announcement but the preliminary results show by 67% of the votes the Mr. Martelly will become the new president in May. Mrs. Manigat has graciously conceded that the people have voted for change, for a new democracy to rebuild their country again. Over 60% believe Martelly will be the one that can lead the country out of the disaster zone. The others will stand by to see if he can do it or if he wil trip over his dancing feet. No doubt he will trip a time or two, maybe often. He has the power of the people behind him today. Only time will tell if he can keep it beyond tomorrow. Mr. Preval is the only president to serve his complete term, twice, so odds are not in Sweet Mickey’s favor. Haiti’s history has been turbulent for most of more than 200 years.


Obviously it has survived in the worst of conditions. Its time that these conditions were changed. Its time the people became the government and not the other way around. I hope the strength they have shown will carry them forward but like a river that meets the dam they have to use the power of the tide to carry them through the difficulties.

Where will they begin? People need to be able to work to feed their families, to send their children to school, to receive health care; they need a decent wage, they need decent education and they need educated health care workers. If a man can earn a wage that affords him these basic needs, he will begin to work for his country too.


The International communities need to recognize that they don’t need left over donations but mentoring to strengthen what they already have~ a will to see change, a belief that it will come in a new direction.


I don’t know that I would have voted for Martelly but I’m happy that the people voted, expressed their desire for change. Its a start. Time to roll up the sleeves, turn up the music (maybe not quite so loud) and make it work.


Good luck Mr. President. Bon chans Ayiti!




Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Day One- project HHH Out Patient Clinic





The Dignity and Spirit of Haiti

Some of my fondest memories in my nursing career have been working with elderly people. I've worked in a number of nursing homes over the years as well as in hospitals. The stories - history they have survived is so amazing. Sometimes its value is hidden, locked away from those of us caring for them; sometimes because the elderly don't think its important to anyone else, sometimes because we don't listen to what they have to say. Taking the time to listen is so important but we lose sight of this in our increasingly busy lives where the clock is always ticking. This morning I took the time to read the following article from Dr. Ray Ford, a physician who has been coming to Haiti for 20 years. He shared this bit of wisdom with a network of medical folks that work in Haiti.

OLD FOLKS: Many of the patients you see will have the same complaint—GAZ. They will touch their heads (tet fe’mal) or their neck, shoulders and backs to indicate their discomfort. Gaz (or gas) seems to be the common term for “discomfort” in the north of Haiti. They will complain (through your interpreter) of gastric discomfort and fever. Their skin will itch from head to foot and sleep will be difficult and interrupted. Many will have burning eyes, diarrhea or constipation. Old men will have trouble with their pee-pee and old women lower abdominal pain. You may feel at a loss to know how to help them. After you have listened to their complaints, ask them what problem is most important to them: make certain that you have dealt, at least, with that issue.

Then, as hours of patient contact pass, it becomes evident that many older Haitians are simply hungry:--to the point of malnutrition. You will discover that some are edentulous or arthritic. More insidious will be your realization that the possibility of chronic depression exists, made even more difficult by cataracts, presbyopia and deafness isolating them from their world. And so it goes, but do not despair.

You will ask yourself “how do they survive”? Who takes care of them? The complexity of that question and the answer, blurred by our vast cultural gap, comes as a gradual revelation to us, especially for the “veteran” physicians who come to Haiti again and again. If they seem ignorant to us—ignorant of our strange ways—imagine how ignorant we are of them. Haiti is a culture of networks (“webs”) of relationships that date back hundreds of years. Remember that all the people that you see will be descended from individuals kidnapped from Africa more than 200 years ago—they are unique.

We have grown up in America. We understand; we need not even contemplate what our culture and environment is all about, but consider this odd world we have entered: where many women have spent their adult lives bearing 20, 30 even 40 pound loads on their heads and necks—doing that while bearing 5, 6 or 8 children from their wombs. This is a place where men have toiled 8, 10 even 12 hours a day in farm fields, only to realize that even then the mouths had not been fed. They have lived in a world where pain is pain and hunger is hunger and one more day is all one asks of his life and the lives of the children.

These are people who possess great, sweet dignity and intellect. It is easy to underestimate them. You will take a great deal more from having been in Haiti than it will take from you. The more times you go, the more you will have each time that you return.

Recently I had a conversation with Dr. Randle who started HHH 12 years ago. He came here on his LDS mission and then later returned to begin providing rehabilitation. He too has seen a lot of changes - history - in Haiti, though I must say right now, he is not old. He is happy that HHH has survived and grown though its a bit unnerving to think of all of the effort and resources to continue the growth and the support needed to continue to meet the tremendous needs of the people in Haiti. Certainly, since the earthquake, there are many more resources and people and organizations that lesson some of that burden. He says he still doesn't understand the country any better. Thats understandable and not surprising. I'm here everyday trying to do this on so many levels - if I equate that on a school level maybe I've reached the 3rd grade.
Yesterday the construction crew arrived on site to begin the first phase of the building project. This involved cutting down the trees that sit inside the perameters of the clinic. Listening to the chainsaws and the chopping- no one called out timber- was kind of sad. The property is lush with trees that are very beautiful and some were very old and have their own kind of history. But as I said to the architect, we are building something in their place that will have a history of its own. I'm excited to be part of that history. Perhaps we will treat some of those women that carry the heavy loads on their head and shoulders. For sure its true, that I will gain much more from my experience here in Haiti than I will ever be able to repay to these people with sweet dignity and the resilience of the great mahogany tree that was cut down yesterday.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Another Birthday in Haiti

This week was my birthday...I think it was the 4th that I have spent in Haiti in the last 4 years. I have to say this one was quite nice but then I would have to admit to a bit of self indulgence....pampering at a local spa that we have found. It was a lovely day to share with my friends, Fiona, Al and Deb. The team from Utah brought me a few gifts including the 3rd book in the series I am reading (and look forward to returning to at the end of each day) and some pool furniture in the way of blow up air mattress/ chair with a drink holder. I have to say I am looking forward to Saturday and testing it out if I don't pass out from trying to blow it up.

We visited a new to us orphanage that cares for disabled children. I keep wondering why we hadn't found it before but that is the way things are in Haiti and with organizations - a term I use to encompass all groups that that come to Haiti to provide service or mission work- not knowing who is working here. Anyway, they have a large area near the airport, with gardens, rabbits, fish, chickens and children. Play structure, a small soccer field, classrooms, etc. They actually have 100 children but only 16 or 17 disabled children. Their story is very similar to all other orphanages we partner with in terms of taking care of the children. Someone had recently given them some very nice chairs for each of the children so HHH volunteers will offer and provide some care giver training and therapy for the children.

Carnival was relatively calm...Fiona and I could not attend the festivities but Jorel gave us some glitter to wear to the airport and feel festive at any rate. I have not heard of any problems associated with carnival. Jorel attended and said there was lots of music and people.
I had heard the bands might boycott and he said the music was cd's so maybe they did. I hope so.

Short and sweet tonight....need to go read 'The Girl Who Kicked the Hornets Nest".

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Life in Haiti...this week.

Its been a couple of weeks now since I have written - I'm not sure if its because I've been busy or if it means I have not been inspired to put words to 'paper'. I know I've been reading a lot- 2 books that have hooked me so that even when the book falls into my face at night, I try to read a little more...It is The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo and The Girl that Played with Fire series.

We've had a variety of visitors through here in the past month. Some that volunteer their services on behalf of HHH and the work that we do in rehabilitation and some that use our house for a hotel. Our house though it needs work, is a respite area. It sits on 4+ acres with many trees. The staff are kind, food is generally quite good, and despite the crazy rooster and Crazy Hen and the noisy birds that sound like monkeys, it is peaceful.
One of our visitors was a group of people with a sanitation product for the water. They put it in our water system and told me the water was safe enough to drink. However, since they seemed to refuse to shower in the water, how am I to trust their product. Then when our tank was empty, they assumed I had it drained. I can only laugh at this. I consider our water a precious commodity and would never empty a tank full of water unless I was told it was causing us all to be ill. Since none of us are ill....well, it was a good joke on them apparently. I'm sure they have very good intentions, and hope to eventually sell their product. No further comment necessary.
For the most part we have some extremely nice volunteers and guests that come through the guest house. I'm proud to get to know them a little bit, happy they are willing to give up time, money, vacation, and their expertise to come to know the Haitians and their country and their culture.

The weather has been fabulous...with occasional bits of rain at night. Only one really good downpour which most people were happy to receive. Low 90's during the day, low 70's is as cold as it gets at night. When all my friends north of Florida report all the freezing temperatures, snow, ice, storms it is with grace and thankfulness that I am not cold, nor complaining about the heat. Snow is sometimes pretty but so is the sunshine, blooming trees and greenery we have surrounding us.

Its carnival time in the city-Monday and Tuesday. Last weekend was the traditional carnival in Jacmel where it all started. I didn't go as much as I would like to see the parade of masks. Here in Port au Prince it is usually held down by the National Palace, with viewing stands being built surrounding the park areas. However, all of the park areas are filled with camps. We saw one viewing stand that is for the mayor and other dignitaries, but no other stands so my guess is the million or so people that usually attend will be in the street. Not sure how that will work out for the floats and other people to parade through. As it won't likely be a good place to be, we'll have to forgo the experience once again. I have heard that they are spending 90 million gourdes on carnival. I can' t imagine that they would do this with current problems of homelessness so I hope it is just a rumor. If true, I am willing to join in the manifestations it should inspire. We will have some days off though so mostly likely I will try to work on my tan...
I've added a link to the end of my article that gives a little history to the Oloffson Hotel. Its probably one of the few places I've been to more than 2 dozen times. Actually the only other place I've been to more is the airport. Happy reading and as one of my dear friends says Keep smiling!


http://www.economist.com/node/21016453

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Hope for Haiti

Jerry art damaged by political posters that have been removed. Fiona and I are on a mission to collect photos of Jerry's art.

After school art school.

Team with artists
Tebo, far left was teaching children, many that lived in the streets in the poorest neighborhoods to give them something to do and possibly some skills with which to make a living.
Contemplation Day...Sunday. Its like a family day. Maggie is sitting on the porch playing cards with Isaiah and his friend. Melissa, Corissa and Cristy are reading and relaxing. I'm no sure what Fiona is doing...earlier we were all out at the pool working on tans. Sun was hot. Nice.
I did a little 'work' in my creole workbook. I've been too busy or distracted to work on my creole. I had a nice Skype conversation with my daughter. I love it now that I don't get cut off after the first hello!!

Yesterday Team Portland arrived. Maggie is making her 3rd trip. Corissa is a PT coming from Portland for the first time. The other 2 girls are OT's from Las Vegas on their first trip as well. This team will have to be called Port Vegas or Las Portland. It seems strange to have only 1 of the old team here. Life changes happen there as it does here. We went to an art school that I learned about. Its just past Al's house in Nerette, and is a small school for children. Its after school when about 75 children show up, receive some food and learn to become artists. They had the usual paintings like one sees in the streets along with some wood carvings, sand paintings, crocheted clothing~ I figured I would buy one of the childrens' paintings since it is to support the school however the price was a bit out of my budget. They wanted $30 for a small 7x9 painting done by an 11 year old. I saw another larger painting I really liked and it was painted by one of the art teachers, Mike. I was told it was an original painting and was for sale for $800 US. I probably should have bought the small one. (No I didn't buy the big one either). At least not yesterday.

Friday night Fiona and I went to the Press Cafe with a couple of HI friends, Carli and Brooke. We had a pretty good time, music was good and we danced a little. Nice just to get out occasionally.

Last night someone asked us if we had hope for Haiti. Yasmine said it was hard to have hope, because nothing ever changes. However, she said maybe a little bit is tucked away. Magnus, journalist that has been here for a month said in his first 2 weeks here, he couldn't feel hope but the past 2 weeks, as he's met and talked to more people, he is beginning to feel more hopeful. He said the people he has met are trying to make changes happen. I have a sense of hope (most days anyway, or I probably wouldn't be here). The 2 days of manifestations in December, which could have lasted much longer was more like a statement for change. Since then the January 16 run off elections did not take place; there was the announcement that it would be Martelly in the race against Mrs. Manigat rather then Celestin. Jean Claude Duvalier returned after 25 years in exile and February 7 - the day Preval was supposed to leave passed~ all with minimal to no disruption. I have a sense people just want to see a change without constant disruption, without violence. Thats what gives me hope.

Here is an interesting story about a sustainable project in Haiti- another sign of hope.
http://www.aolnews.com/2011/02/13/comprehensive-development-project-plants-8-million-trees-in-hait/