Driving in Haiti

As we drove to the airport this morning, traffic was being redirected into our lane...what? Sounds of sirens and ambulances' coming down the proper lane. Oh so there must be an accident. Nope,  but police posted at intersections and traffic still coming into our lane still did nothing to indicate the reason. Suddenly, we saw them- runners, mostly in red jerseys with white numbers across their belly. A marathon or run of some kind and we couldn't help but cheer for them. Being sunday the traffic wasn't bad despite the re-direction, but we decided we would return on a different route. No surprises along the way until....we met the runners. The lead runner, at least we assumed was being escorted despite not having a number. Others followed at a little distance behind. 

There is always something to see when driving in Port au Prince, or the countryside for that matter. Something that captures your thoughts, makes you giggle -or swear. Its rarely boring except when stuck  in a blockess that seemingly has no reason. With some of the schools opening, and with road work and demolition, that is enough in itself to create traffic jams. We did note that both routes to the airport had had road work done with potholes filled in- making a much smoother drive and quicker drive. The 10 mile round trip took about 40 minutes in spite of the marathon this morning.  Despite dodging church-goers and their fancy clothes, the market people carrying baskets on their head, dogs and motos that cut in and out of traffic. 

On one shortcut, we still see a small truck half buried in a collapsed house. We still see way too many temporary shelters- tents and tarps with the odd tin or plywood roof and doors. A few wooden t-shelters are interspersed among these. Political graffiti sprayed on to walls; ads pasted along side or over the words.  Billboards old and new announcing which band is playing at which club- we get excited to see who is coming until we realize it was last weekend, or last year.  We search the route looking for new Jerry art, wondering what his message will be. Beauty salons and lottos are on every block. Stacks of coke and big speakers blasting music sit along site tires, pepes (used clothing hanging on the walls), tv antenna's and mosquito nets, hardware and auto parts (Mapa), rice and little buildings selling clean bottled water, fruit and vegetables, paintings line the main streets; taking a shortcut has a few more potholes and bumps, fewer people and fewer markets but at about every corner someone has set up a stall to sell Barbincourt, Comme il Faut (cigerettes), maggi, canned milk and corn flakes. Perhaps a little  charcoal grill will be burning with corn on the cob and chicken or hot dogs sitting on the grill. 

Woman braiding a child's hair, a child braiding her sister's hair, men sitting at tables slapping dominos, the losers looking silly with clothes pins stuck to their face or arms.  Children running along pushing metal hoops, flying little Seran wrap kites or kicking a doll head in lieu of a soccer ball. 

Sunday mornings are quiet, the occasional beep of a horn interrupting the cricket and bird songs. As the  day wears on the sounds of the football game or kompas  from the bidonville will be our background music. Lately, every afternoon, we have thunder from the mountain. Last night, the lightning and thunder brought us a quick heavy rain.  At least for us, just enough to cool the air before going to bed. 

Last weekend we went up the mountain to Fort Jacques and Boutillier. Driving up the mountain is only different in that the higher you go, the more cooler the air. Refreshing...we had a guided tour of the old fort that sustained considerable damage from the earthquake but the rubble was cleared and there was still 'history' to see and our guide shared his knowledge in pretty decent english. He said he learned his english from listening to english speakers leading 'tourists' around the site. He had been giving tours for 6 years.  Boutillier is a look out area from which you can see the city of Port au Prince.  It is being fixed up with a bar and toilet; little shops have been built to replace the little rickety stalls that once housed the artists' work. The merchants want us to see everything and spend lots of money but weren't nearly as aggressive as they were the first time I visited this lovely vista. Its a very nice way to spend a few hours on saturday morning. 

Yesterday we spent the day at the beach. We arrived to a parking lot full of cars, including President Martelly's entourage of black SUV's.  With our somewhat late arrival, we fully expected the beach to be crowded but once inside (oh, the price for a day on the beach without buffet meal-$25 US.) Surprisingly, there weren't so many- it turns out that Martelly was in a meeting with the new CEP members, UN and other officials along with a corp of news people. Though there was security men posted throughout, they were unobtrusive and we wouldn't have even known anyone (official) was there.  It takes just under two hours to get to this beach, going through a half dozen small towns along the way and seeing a lot of country side- open areas of land along with plots of banana trees. People again carrying baskets of products or leading donkeys loaded with food stuff going to the saturday markets.  The road has been newly paved and except for one big bump makes for a fairly quick drive. Going to the beach (Indigo, anyway) is like going away on a mini vacation. Stress and work flow out with the tide.  The warm salt water is like getting a massage, but considerably less expensive. 

I think this is more of an out building thats sits above a second fort - Alexandre- which we did not go to.  A variety of canons from the French and British. 

This cistern is to catch rainwater and is 16 feet deep. 

This is the port to the secret tunnel that used to go to Fort Alexandre. The tunnel has mostly collapsed. 

Bread (or pizza?) oven

Noel hid in here ahead of our arrival to try to scare us...

The soldiers sleeping room.

Jake, Hadrien, Lissette, me and Noel

Our guide

The view across the city from Boutillier

Blue Moon over Haiti

Its hard to believe August is finished. Last day. End of summer?  Time to start new calendar. This is the first time I have spent the whole of August in Haiti. In general is was not any hotter than July- and actually somewhat cooler, but I do miss my summer trip to the river and hanging out with my cousins as we float around enjoying some Mike's Hard Lemonade. We started out the month with a house full of guests but ending with just 3 of us here. The tropical storm that threatened to become a hurricane caused cancelation of a couple of trips. Thankfully for us and for Haiti, the storm did not become a hurricane and cause the devastation it has caused in Louisiana, it did wreak havoc in Haiti. With still over 300,000 people without proper homes it caused enough damage to kill 24 persons, and disrupt lives and lively hood of many, many more. The government mobilized and found shelter for the most vulnerable yet homes and crops were destroyed.  We at the guest house had safe shelter and sustained no damage with this storm. We are the lucky ones.

I went to Canada this month to attend a board meeting but also was able to enjoy some rest and relaxation and see some good friends. Colleen and Jeff have been inviting me to visit for years to come to Fredricton, New Brunswick. As it is about as far from Portland as Haiti is, it didn't seem like it would happen.  Even though I have been going back to the states several times a year, it continues to strike me  the diversity I encounter every time.  The trees, the yards, the homes, the clean streets, the driving all still have an effect on me. It almost feels 'other worldly' and makes me sad for those that continue to struggle day to day.  I recently viewed a you-tube video of Haiti in the 1940's, with its clean, wide streets, so few people and cars, beautiful art deco buildings and neon signs flashing- ahh, they had electricity to light up the nights. It looked more like what South Beach might look like in the 40's but with street vendors selling their mangos and coffee beans. Will Port au Prince ever be able to rise to that  level again? Port au Prince, the cosmopolitan city of Haiti, of developing nations, needs to fill a few 'potholes' to get there.

Our prosthetics and orthotics workshop opened this month, filled with our staff and with students enrolled in the University of Don Bosco long distance training program.  Its good to have our staff back   and activity in the workshop.

The beginning of autumn.  Here there isn't much of a change from season to season. No trees to change color. Hurricane season picks up its threats. School will be starting up again soon which means traffic increases and children in their colorful checked school uniforms, the little girls with matching hair ribbons and little boys with shiny shoes will be once again walking to and from their school.

Tonight is a full moon, actually a Blue Moon- which we won't see again for 3 years. I'm hoping for clear skies tonight. No storms on the horizon, no howling, just appreciation for the universe.

Cultural Pride of an Independent Nation

Titled "Fertilization" 

 Evidence of roof damage after the sudden but thankfully short storm that hit us July 16. A palm tree from the neighbors yard crashed down upon the dining room. I was actually glad that it did not hit our little chevy van.


I might get the hang of this different layout...maybe. I'll write more at the bottom following the photos (randomly added).

Tomb of Presidents

This is the ceiling over the tomb. From the outside it sits center of water feather.  See photo of the guys. 

Hadrien, Jake and Andy

"Life"

One of my favorites of course...

Jenna and Tasha

Water feature and "domes" on roof of  National Museum

Statue art

Entrance of National Museum d'Haiti

The visit to the National Museum of Haiti was a wonderful surprise. From the outside, and up several sets of stairs was a water feature with 5 tiled domes and a larger one in the center. Upon entering, the 'guide' told us, with obvious pride, the museum was divided into 3 parts.  The first part being the 'crypt' of the first 3 presidents of Haiti. Beautifully designed with the crest of Haiti in gold and surrounded by pillars, the ceiling tiled in brick, we realized it was the center dome from above providing the light. 

From there to the left, the guide told us was the early history of Haiti- the arrival of Christopher Columbus and from there he let us ooh, ahh and gaze at the artifacts of the past 200 years.  The anchor of the Santa Maria sat at center of one of displays. Is it really?  

The 3rd section of the gallery consisted of paintings in different mediums.  I took photos of some of my favorites but there were some strange ones that drew our attention. We could not really wrap our minds around them. The gallery itself was beautifully designed and could have been anywhere in the world.  This is just another example of Haiti at its best. I was fortunate enough to visit the National Palace in  2009 (see old blogs for photos).  The thing is every country has its poor, its slums, its problems.  So why would Haiti be any different.  Its a small country with a big population of extremely poor people that do deserve to be lifted up.  Unfortunately, their national pride isn't enough.  

That night we watched an old movie- 1492 - about Christopher Columbus' voyage to the Caribbean Islands, including Haiti. It was long and actually quite boring.  I would like to see the newly released movie "Toussaint Louvature" which I've heard is a very good historical film of the early history of Haiti's Independence. 

Storms, Fires and Haitian Firemen

We survived our first storm of the year with a few bruises. On Monday as we watched the storm clouds darken the skies, we weren't exactly prepared for the force that hit us about 1:15 pm. The wind came just ahead of the rain drops that turned into a raging mass of energy in minutes.  Flying palm fronds and the slamming of doors in the house as we ran around taking pictures off the walls, suddenly a loud crash! I was relieved momentarily that a tree had not crashed onto our van but dismayed to see the neighbors' palm tree stretched across the patio and sitting on the new roof of the dining room. A few ceiling tiles popped out. Luckily, we weren't sitting at the table when this occured- that would have freaked us out. It looked like our outdoor dining space was turned into a 'jungle cafe'.  The gutter quickly overflowed with torrential downpour, leaves clogging near my office. Minutes away from another flood, we cleared the mess averting the flow. As suddenly as it started, it seemed to stop. At 2 pm we were assessing damage, taking photos, and making phone calls to make sure everyone was all right.

Tuesday morning I was greeted with Madam Gail, we have a pwoblem. The mango tree near the gate and generator was smoking, smoldering and with pockets of small blazes. The tree was humming, alive with electricity. We called the electric company to come turn off the power- no one wanted to get near the electrical sources!  Of course, they would be right over....after they dealt with the problem at the Prime Ministers residence.  The transformer was 'exploding' through out the day making everyone jumpy as the tree continued to send up small smoke signals.
EDH never did come but when the power went off on its own, John and Pierre cut the branchs, which covered the generator and gas barrels...and still touched the electrical wires. I had a big problem with this so I called the fire department. The big red pomper came with 8 guys. They had 2 helmets donated from the French and looked like silver Star Wars helmets. They shared jackets donated from Spain and shared boots as needed.  When they arrived, they said 'There is no fire". BUT there is a problem and we will help so they removed the tree, had some water and a photo session with us.  Funny thing was that I had had a dream several days before in which there was a Haitian fireman- I don't remember the dream now except that part only because Jenna and Tasha reminded me of it.
Sometimes I have 'epic' dreams, some pretty crazy ones too- last night RAM was in my dream. I find them pretty entertaining when I can remember them.  However, I have no idea where they come from or what they mean. Anyway, after this excitement we all went out to dinner to celebrate Hadrien's birthday.

Wednesday was relatively benign as days go. The neighbor sent a guy to 'clean' up the fallen palm tree,  I searched through the container for treasures and then went to the airport to pick up a team. The plane ended up sitting on the tarmac for 2 hours so by the time we returned to the guesthouse it was 9 pm.

Today we interviewed for a new driver, met the new owners of the property and enjoyed a nice dinner in  a houseful of people.

Somedays test our stamina and strength, some days our patience or empathy. I hope (or strive) for having whatever the situation calls for and celebrate appropriately.

Independence Day: Living in Haiti

What does it mean to you?   Waking up this morning, knowing friends and family in US will have the day off to celebrate in so many ways- a day at the lake; family picnics and parades, baseball and apple pie, fireworks- even watching Tour de France Race and across the land there will be political rallies, it seemed like a good day to ‘blog’.

For me, today is a regular working day.  It is the same for Andy, Jake and Craig who are here. Another volunteer coming for about 6 weeks is flying in today.  We are fortunate Americans that have the freedom to live and work without repression, without fear, without hunger.   Not everyone has that same fortune. Not in US, not in Haiti and not in many other places for sure but it is a day to celebrate and reflect on what this day stands for: Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Happiness.  Written over 200 years ago, do people still find it relevant?  Is it appreciated for what it means?

Life in Haiti, though certainly not easy, is not horrible, scary or unbearable. Obviously, or I would not be here.  It has given me the opportunity to meet people from all over the world working not to make money but for something that enriches my life in a different way, to expand my experience on a daily basis. 

The support of family and friends gives me the liberty to follow my heart and be happy. 

As a nation, we have come a long way but in this political year, it seems we still have a long way to go to live up to the aspirations of Life (equality), Liberty (humanitarian), and Pursuit of Happiness (hope).  

I wish all that for you and for a safe and happy day on this 4^th of July wherever you are in this world. 

Ewald's Graduation

Another trip home to Portland, another long flight, weather delay caused a missed flight and overnight stay in Dallas...minor frustrations only.  We all suffer through small and big frustrations and challenges daily.  How we deal with them helps make us the person we become.  We can't walk in other peoples shoes, we can't take on their challenges, their frustrations, their pain or their grief. We can bask in their happiness, their glory, their success, we can support and we can offer whatever we can to help them on their journey.  Last night my family and I, along with Angel, Ranee, Chris-girl and Maggie shared Ewald's success and his happiness.  Here is his speech and a couple of photos.  I hope that you will feel the pride that we all felt last night as he stood on that stage to speak and receive his diploma. 

Ewald Frank Estanis: 

I used to think that graduation ceremony is a celebration of the sacrifices we've made to get here; but by looking at the world today and its challenges,  it is to me more of a reminder of the commitments that life will now demand from us.

My name’s Ewald Estanis. I was born in Haiti, one of the poorest countries in the western hemisphere. It’s a country where over 50 percent of the population is illiterate. It’s a country where kids with dreams and determination can’t really project how their tomorrow will be. It’s a country where everyday people are desperate and tired of living the life they have been living forever. Every day they live with no conviction that something will turn out well. But an opportunity is what they are all dreaming of.  An opportunity that just only a few of them ever get.

I am the third oldest of a family of 8 children. My father was the manager of an organization and the main provider of the family. My mother stayed home taking care of the house and the children. Growing up, I had a dream to become a medical doctor or a business manager like my father.

When I was 17 years old, my father passed away. It was one year before graduating from secondary school which is the equivalent of high school.  This was a very though time for my family, but my mother’s courage pushed me to make it through graduation the following year.  After graduation, as one of the oldest children, I had to make a choice: I could go to a university or find a job to help my mother and my younger siblings get their education. I had to make a sacrifice. I had to move to Port-au-Prince working night shift just to support my family.

While in Port-au-Prince, I worked for an international organization called Healing Hands for Haiti as a medical translator. There I met Gail Buck and Angelina Sams from a medical team from Portland. They told me about opportunity for education and gave me information about colleges in Oregon and encouraged me to continue my education. I got connected to PCC not only because it was more affordable but also because of the diversity and the sense of community that PCC is known for. Staff and faculty were so helpful and responsive to my questions, that it did not take me too long to realize that this was the place for me.

I’m standing here today just because of one opportunity; an opportunity that could be me once in a lifetime; an opportunity that required sacrifices and perseverance, an opportunity that changed my life.

In September 2009, I came to the United States and began my first term at PCC. It was really hard to leave my mother and my brothers and sisters so far behind. Before I left, my mother said to me: “it’s your education, it’s your future, do it for yourself and do it for us”. - And I’m here today, not only because I wanted to be here but also because my mother who’s also my hero for raising us 8 without a father, my brothers and sisters, my friends Ranee, Angel, Chris, and so many others wanted this to happen;

It was because of them I had the financial resources to come here;

It was because of them I was able to take advantage of the opportunity to get an education;

It was because of them that I stand before you today.  They are my motivations and my reasons to never give up.

When I arrived in Portland, I was welcomed by Gail Buck, who told me: “from now on our family is also your family.” She had my room ready, a new cell phone and other things that I could ever dream of. Since that day, they’ve lived with me like I’m part of their family; their own blood. Today from the deepest of my heart I want to say to my dad Laddie, my sister Erin, my brothers Danny and Andy and my wonderful mother Gail:

Thank you for all the support and trust you have had in me;

 For the love you have given me;

 For giving me a home, and a home that will always be home. 

Grand Opening of Healing Hands for Haiti Clinic

We have had our Grand Opening...and here is where I would have posted some photos of the big event we've been looking forward to for the past year. However, before I downloaded my pictures, I was taking a photo of some new Jerry graffiti and a little rat thief ran by and snatched my camera from my hands. He ran and disappeared quickly. This is an unfortunate but frequent occurrence on the streets of Port au Prince. One that I am well aware of happening and usually take greater precautions to prevent it from happening to me.  I was very angry mostly at myself but disappointed at losing the photos that I took May 22nd.  The photos posted here are from Mike Murphy with appreciation.

The clinic was dressed up with colorful balloons, chairs dressed with white covers and red bows and guests milling around admiring the 'artwork' that Lars had hung, the skylight, the therapy rooms...representatives from the government were there, news people were there, board members and guests, colleagues from other organizations, representation of our patients- in all maybe 200 folks listened to speeches, watched the  dancers and enjoyed a light lunch. Segments appeared on the local television for several days afterwards.

Our guest house has been spruced up a bit - a new ceiling installed, a new coat of exterior paint in a bold spicy orange color gives it a new look. We've got some new furniture that is very nice and comfy. The kitchen also got a new coat of paint- its brighter and cleaner.
We still have a little bit of fixing up to do but it looks inviting and homey and comfortable.

I'll be going to Portland for a break soon. Ewald is graduating from college and was chosen as the only student speaker at his commencement ceremony. No way I want to miss that.