Port au Prince 1918 and now...

Its been a little too long since I have posted to my blog. Mostly because I have been so very busy with team activity almost continuous since I last wrote.

This morning at 2 am, Haiti changed their practice and turned the clocks ahead 1 hour for the first time in many years. Apparently, the last time they did it was a little more than the country could take and they reversed the policy. Most people arise at dawn and go to bed with the chickens so to speak and less by what time the clock on the wall (if they had one) said.

For me, I like a later sunset. We had one of our volunteers scheduled to depart at 8:20 this morning so in order to get to the airport in time, we scheduled departure for 6 am- I got a wake up call at 6:35- no driver- yikes, we jumped into the van and using my fabulous Haitian driving skills we made it to the airport in 15 minutes! It helped considerably that their was minimal traffic on this early Sunday morning! Most likely I could have made it in 10 minutes if there were not so many potholes to slowdown for...a typical trip is 30+ minutes depending on traffic (can be longer).

Our clinic is getting closer to opening day. With painting, wiring, tiling, cabinetry, doors, roadwork etc frantically being completed, the plan is to receive 'keys' on March 30th. With a week to move from current clinic to the new one, get staff oriented and trained to begin receiving patients April 16th.

I have to say that I am excited, nervous, happy, and a bit reluctant to believe that it will actually happen as planned. I tend to be overly optimistic when it comes to time tables and should rein in the enthusiasm to avoid disappointment. But a little faith and hope can sustain one during these moments so thats what I will go with.

We have had some awesome teams come since I last wrote in my blog. Minnesota and a few days later, Team Canada Healing Hands (TCHH). While we had a very full house, Prestige eased any discomfort and they worked together like well-oiled machines. Several people provided specific education to the staff in the clinic- rehab nursing, speech therapy and more general mandatory ed to all staff. The awesome wheelchair seating team visited 6 orphanages and repaired many of the chairs and built 35 new specialized chairs (out of old chairs/ parts). I wish this team could come every 6 months! Another team of trainers provided specific spinal cord injury care training to professionals in Les Cayes, Jacmel and Leogane reaching out to over 70 participants. Before the earthquake few people sustaining a spinal cord injury survived long. We knew of less than a handful. Since the earthquake, we now have a documented data base of over 276 surviving injuries. Not all of these are from the earthquake but because of this type of training provided by our specialists, people are surviving their injuries and returning to their homes and communities. The hardest part now may be in bringing awareness through out the country that care is available and getting people sustaining injuries to that care.

A team from Utah followed them and provided care givers training to 2 orphanages over 4 days. The directors for these 2 places were so happy to receive the additional education for their staff!

The volunteers from Minnesota, TCHH and Utah deserve our thanks in a very big way! As do all of the care givers from physicians to social workers to rehab techs that are trying their best here in the country to provide on-going care to these very vulnerable and special people and their families.

Since I have returned from Christmas break, there has been a noticeable decrease in the tents camps near the airport. In fact, in the 2 areas at the airport all of the tents are gone- the park is being cleaned up. In Champs des Mars, work is continuing with support from Canada and IOM to help people find a more permanent and safe housing. As we drove around the National Palace yesterday, we could actually see the Neg Maron statue! As I did not want to disturb the people that were still there near the statue, I did not take a photo. They've had enough invasion by folks taking pictures. We drove around to check out the other statues in some of the other park areas around the palace and there are still way too many tents surrounding them to really get a view unfortunately. Still much work to be done. President Martelly has said that he wants everyone moved out by June and to have the parks opened up and cleaned up again. He is planning a Festival of Flowers for July to celebrate. We have to wish him well in his attempt. Recently, the Prime Minister (installed after 6 months without one) resigned after only 4 months of work. This will no doubt cause a slow down again, raising concern for the International community as well as the citizens. Haiti politics at its best is a problem, and this is significant problem to overcome once again. On top of this, there is also the oppositions claim that the President is not a Haitian citizen so is not qualified to be president- Sound familiar? Politics at its worst in US and in Haiti. Concern is not for the people they represent but for the power for themselves.

The picture above is a photo of Port au Prince in 1918. If I remember correctly from my tour of the palace in 2009, this was around the time that the palace was destroyed and new palace was built (I think it took about 7 years) and during this time the US sent in military to occupy the nation until 1934. You can look back on older blogs to see photos of the palace that I toured in '09. Driving by yesterday, we did see signs of active clean up in progress.

Enjoy your (extended) day and I hope you have a beautiful sunset.

My Two Year Anniversery

Laughter is important. It is positive energy, a powerful source of strength. I try to laugh everyday. Usually it’s at myself when I cannot properly communicate something and it doesn’t turn out exactly as it was meant. Gracie makes me laugh. I laugh with friends. I laugh watching “Modern Family” TV series.

Sometimes when things seem the darkest, allowing a memory to bring laughter to your heart is all that is needed to take the next step.

Some people are amazed that I have been here 2 years – today actually . People have asked me how can I stand to be here that long. How do you deal with the hardship? How do deal with the sadness.? The garbage? The rubble? Doesn’t it get to you that nothing changes? And lots of other negative things.

First, I am amazed that it has been two years. Second, there have been a lot of changes. Thirdly, you can’t dwell on the big picture, can’t look at only the negative. It takes too much energy. Two years later all is not sad. This is not to say that there isn’t sad times, bad things that happen, or that its not hard work. There is still a lot of work to do. T We just have to pick our moments.

Thursday night my friend Noel and his wife Carmel had a baby girl. Their daughter Francesca is 10 yrs old. She has been wanting a baby brother or sister for a long time. After the earthquake, Francesca was trapped for 3 days in the rubble of Twins Market. When Noel finally heard her voice under all that cement, he stayed with her for 3 days until he could get help to get her out. Its hard for him to talk about and he doesn’t like to talk about it. He and his wife also took in 5 children whose parents were killed in the earthquake. He works hard to take care of his family, never asks me for more. He of course has worries how he will provide for these children but does not complain that he was given additional burden. I remember the morning he told me his wife was pregnant. We were driving along and he started laughing. He said he had a good joke for me. For several weeks, Carmel had been feeling sick and had gone to the doctors. Since they had given up hope of having another baby, they were very surprised at the news. Now he laughed and said Francesca is so happy. We made jokes and laughed about it.

Noel likes jokes and likes to laugh. It gives him strength. I know the challenges that lay ahead for him but I’m happy for him and Carmel and Francesca. They have love and laughter in their hearts again.

Today Fiona and I picked up the Minnesota team at the airport. ( Most of the tents have been removed – another good sign).

Waiting for the team to come out of the airport we talked with the some of the guys waiting to help people with the luggage, we watched them as they goofed around with each other, arguing and laughing and just generally horsing around while they waited, hoping someone will allow them to help with the luggage and the supplies piled high on carts. We laughed with them and laughed at the people coming through the doors to be greeted by this chaos that surrounded them. Oh, I do remember that first time I came out and experienced the same thing but now its just very amusing. These men have at least come to recognize me and greet me sweetly. I’ve learned some of their stories of that fateful day. I’ve seen some of the changes in their faces since those early days when I was going to airport to pick up people. They are finding strength in their camaraderie, their jokes and horsing around.

Tears wash away the dirt of sorrow, but laughter gets you through the day. Today I will laugh.

Haiti needs Change- A Hand Up, not a Hand Out

Its been over a month since my last post and with the holiday season just past, I should get back to it. It was lovely to spend time with family and friends, recharge my energy level and apparently gain some weight...why is it Haitians notice 5 # immediately! The funny thing is that they think it is a good thing! Why don't I?

This week will mark the 2 year anniversary of the earthquake and by the time the team from Minnesota arrives on the 28th, 2 years since I returned to Haiti for this long stay. How do I feel about this? Its all about change isn't it? Life changed for hundreds of thousands of Haitians on 12 January 2010 - a seemingly normal sunny day coming to an end. Life changed for me at that moment too, though I didn't realize at the time what those changes would look like. Moving to Haiti brought profound changes in my family life too. How are they coping, accepting, feeling about those changes? Those friends I've met since coming to Haiti and live here now with me- Fiona, Andy and Alain and sometimes Katherine all made a life change too when they chose to live in Haiti for an extended period of time, how do they feel?

Those of us here see the small, sometimes subtle changes day to day but judging by some of the news reports most don't see any changes. We have to remind people that changes don't happen fast, can't happen fast enough but can't happen fast if you want real change. Haiti needs real change. At the 5 year anniversary (in 2010) of Hurricane Katrina in which over 900 people perished, it was reported they were still in recovery which they expected to take 10-20 years. This is in a country that has emergency systems in place, has equipment in place, that has exemplary medical systems for emergency aid- warning systems, 911, ambulances, EMT's, etc, that has consistent, stable government, electricity, safe water and on and on yet 5 years later there is still much to be done.

In a country that the government is unstable most of the time, has spotty and unreliable electricity, poor drinking water, unfathomable unemployment numbers, and no emergency systems, it is predictable that recovery to pre quake standards could take 10 years. But Haiti needs change and there are many, many people here Haitian and ex-pats that want to help and see that change become possible. Former US presidents fly in and out, working to help make that change come about. Actors and actresses and other high profile people fly in and out that want to have their names and faces in the news. As far as I can see the only good thing about their visit is the fact that they keep Haiti in the spotlight for a bit longer and that is a good thing. People on the ground provide employment to the Haitians, provide education for sustainability, provide ways to improve drinking water and prevent cholera, provided medical emergency care in the aftermath and now are passing it back to the Haitians in this recovery and development period. There are still many 'volunteers' coming to do good work in these areas 2 years later.

We are seeing changes. For Healing Hands for Haiti's, the new physical rehabilitation / orthotics and prosthetics clinic is getting closer to being completed. Check out the website for a calendar of photos- its pretty cool to see the week to week growth. We hope to transition to this site in March and hold the grand opening in May. We will continue to strive to provide 'expert" rehabilitation care to hundreds of disabled adults and children each month in this new facility with the help we have received from the American and International Red Cross. Our clients are the most vulnerable of people in Haiti, they deserve such facilities to improve and enrich their daily lives. Most of these people can not afford such treatment and yet we provide it at little to no cost. We have received help from Direct Relief International to do this during the this rebuilding phase. Physicians for Peace and others have provided funding for special programs. Without them, we would not be where we are today and I say this with a truly grateful thank you.

In the downturn of the economy seen all over the world, Haiti and HHH has felt the effects. Haiti needs the continued attention of the world. So if the headlines read that 500,000 people still reside in tents, that 7000 people have died from cholera, that the National Palace is still a pile of rubble and the government works in temporary shelter buildings, it can't be all bad if from this horrible situation some positive change occurs. The situation is horrible, no doubt about it.

Some people say that ex-pats need to leave and let the Haitians figure out how to rebuild their lives, their cities, their systems- education, infrastructure, emergency, medical, police- etc. To me, it seems like too big of a change to do alone. Haitians need to do it but they need a hand up, not a hand out.

I continue to feel grateful to be here, to do what little bit I can. It is very little in the big picture of all that lays in front of us. I don't know how long I will be here but I'll continue to do what I can in that time, I will enjoy the sunny days and be grateful for all that I am blessed with- supportive family, good friends- old and new and give a hand up when I can.

Day of Disability should be changed to Day of Ability and Accessibility!

Its been a busy week since my return from spending Thanksgiving with my family in Portland. There is so much to be thankful for. Having everyone gathered together to share this special holiday is a gift- My 90+ yr old mother in law to the new baby Cona, just a few weeks old now. The news that 2 new babies will join the family next year. I think there were nearly 30 people in the house and 4 generations.

On Tuesday we attended a conference at the Karibe Hotel to meet with a young man from MIT that is designing a new w/chair. We will be getting some in a few months to trial. They are called the Leverage Freedom chair and can be powered with a lever system for more torque power especially good for difficult terrain. We listened to speeches given by former President Clinton and Haiti's President Martelly. Fiona and I talked with some of the local artisans in attendance to ask if they had people with disability working for them and why not? Are their places of employment accessible? We have to hold each and all accountable to make progress.

Just before I went home for Thanksgiving the workers poured the last bit of concrete on the room of our new clinic. Shouts of joy and no doubt pride was heard in those voices as they drifted up the hill to my room. It is amazing to see the progress over the past 8 months!

Last loads of cement going onto the roof.


They have already started the interior work of plastering walls, laying tile, and building the railing. We celebrated on Friday 2 December with a 'Tree Topping' ceremony to commemorate the moment in honor of the construction team. Unfortunately, we didn't have a tree yet....

The following pictures are some of the key players in this project.
Dr. Ben Nau, country medical director, Dr. Jim Rhode, Minnesota Board member and Dr. Riche Zamor, HHH Executive Director.
Mssada president, Poul Bertlson and T&C Construction, Gilbert.
Al Ingersoll, HHH Country Director and Director of Prosthetics and Orthotics with Poul Bertlson
HHH Board Vice President Rudolphe Lalanne and ED Riche Zamor...
T&C Construction, August and ICRC Clerk of Works, Alexander Humbert.
Alexander and Andy along with ICRC representatives...
New railing....
some of the construction crew....

Al and Deb Ingersoll and Andrew Ripp

New almost completed plaster room. Glass remains to be installed, floor sealed and plumbing completed.
Al ceremoniously adds a shovel of cement...

Here is my shovelful....

Andy Ripp adding his share...

Although it is not the entire crew, here are the representatives of the bunch, including Gracie.

Afterwards, we celebrated with a small luncheon, a bit of champagne and Prestige.

That night some of us went out to celebrate at the International Club to hear Belo and several other groups. In between each set, the MC talked about the importance of inclusion and accessibility and awarded honors to several people, including a chief of Police in honor of the disabled police on the force.

To see progress is to see hope and that is a reason to celebrate.

Last night Andy and I made a lemon meringue pie. I love lemon pie, but they do not have lemons in Haiti; they do have lemon flavored instant pudding. Sometimes you use what you have. We also didn’t have a pie plate- they don’t make pies in Haiti. Andy made a mean looking piecrust. And I actually mean it literally! It kind of melted off the side of the pan (which was a skillet). We were cracking up laughing but in the end in didn’t look too bad. We also got a new (temporary) cook and it was her first evening with us. I’m pretty sure she thought we were a little crazy, however, in the end she said our pie was very good.

We attended our first Special Olympics event on Monday held in Ganthier, about an hour east of Port au Prince. With much excitement, we invited 3 of our spinal cord injured friends to attend with us. Andy and I went to Rebo’s (coffee shop) and purchased deli sandwiches and juice for a ‘picnic’ lunch.

Upon arrival, our first mission was to determine accessibility and searched for a toilet… over a cement barrier, up 3 steps, 100 yards up a rubbled pathway, lift the wheelchair up a 2 foot step, down a narrow walkway to discover the ‘toilets . Funded with money from our own tax dollars. The picture says it all.

After the usual opening speeches, we expected the games to begin….but while we waited we visited with Madam Lucille Charles (a nurse and lawyer and the President of the Haitian Nurses Association) and with Mr Jean Sanon Chevalier (President of the Special Olympics and Paralympiques and former / original Haitian board member of HHH.

Unfortunately, it was not very well organized and few events – a pick up game of wheelchair basketball, a ping pong game and a couple of amputee foot races later our friends we ready to leave. As there were well over 100 disabled children and young adults in attendance all I could think about was planning next years Olympics! Our picnic didn’t happen either.

This young man had very good balance- We thought he could use a challenge of an obstacle course to show off his skills. Yep, these are the w/chair accessible toilets.

A very high step to reach the toilet area...
after traversing this path.

The Healing Hands team meets the president of the Special Olympics.

Today we had another adventure. We took a charter flight to Cap Haitian to deliver wheelchairs and return with several of our SCI (spinal cord injured) recipients that went up last week for a jewelry making class. We were able to tour the rehab center at Haiti Hospital Appeal. Tomorrow is move in day with about 20 patients receiving comprehensive rehabilitative care. The first in-patient center in Haiti! Congratulation to Haiti Hospital Appeal, to Carwyn and Reninca Hill and all involved in making this happen.

Andy, Fiona and I ride in the back of the truck with a load of wheelchairs being delivered to the new rehab center.
The Citadelle from the air.A very happy Jorel joins our adventure.

Saturday in Port au Prince, Haiti.

I woke to the sounds of workers below my house as they arrived to work about 7 a.m. What was I dreaming about…..oh George Clooney. I think I was in some sort of action movie…we were driving – rather weaving in and out of very fast traffic. Hmmm, not sure why it was George Clooney but then again why not.

The plans for the day included usual stop at the market but first a trip to the Iron Market – Mache Faire or Hippolyte. This is a big market, rebuilt by Digicel since the earthquake and is full of aisle of artisans and crafts for sale. There are 2 sides as you drive into the parking lot. On the left is a food market and on the right crafts.

But first we had to get there. Jorel was our driver and we attempted to tell him where we wanted to go. I say attempted because as we drove downtown and he pointed to a grocery store. No, we didn’t want that market, we wanted the iron market, you know the one you took Jeff R and Ti Chat to. For the next 15 minutes, we drove past the National Palais and in circles until the next stop was a museum (closed). No Jorel, the big Iron Market where all the artists are. I made a call to Noel, another trip around downtown, another call to Noel and then a call to Antonio. “Please help us explain to Jorel where we want to go. Thank you.” An AHA moment later, we were on our way through a crowded market street.

I have not been to the Iron Market before. I’d heard it was crowded, dark, and sellers aggressive. However, I’d been told since it was rebuilt it was much better. Fiona had gone down one day when I was on vacation this summer and quite liked it. As we entered a man greeted us in English. His name was Ti Jean. He said he would help us get good prices. Well at least he was very pleasant and helped us when we needed communication assistance and answered our questions. We walked aisle after aisle finding just the right things to buy. My intention was to purchase some Christmas presents. And I did, so I cannot describe them just now. But I was also very attracted to a large painting asking price $500 USD. Not happening. Its very good to have limited funds…I could have, probably would have bought a couple of paintings. Those of you that have been reading my blog since the beginning may remember the first ‘pet’ I had in Haiti. A small turtle- toti- that I was given by Ti Chat. The turtle came from the Iron market for $1. We saw more turtles of all different sizes but I refrained from buying one (at least this trip) as I’ve not had particularly good luck with turtles in terms of keeping them alive. I thought turtles were supposed to live a very long time. Well, mine didn’t. Half of the market is all kinds of art; the other half is filled with an assortment of voudou potions, lotions, icons, idols and flags. Whatever you made need, you can find. Quite fascinating really. People were kind, friendly, helpfull for the most part. A few ignored us but no one was really aggressive. We finished our ‘tour’ of the market and as we wove our way back through, making our purchases. I did purchase the painting for a substantially lower price of 4000 gds instead of 20000 gds. (sounds like a better deal when written in terms of gourdes vs. USD.)

Leaving the market parking, Jorel drove through a street thick with market vendors honking his horn and patiently waiting for people to clear room for us to drive through. There may have been a better route but for people that know Jorel know that if it’s a shorter route and he can keep moving forward, that is the direction we will take. But our plan was to go to Deli Mart on Delmas 33. Jorel began driving in a direction indicating he didn’t know where we wanted to go, I kept asking him and he kept confirming that he knew where we wanted to go and we eventually turned north and took the road that took us to Deli Mart. He thought he was very clever in avoiding the horrible traffic on Delmas and indeed he was.

Andy bought supplies to make a pie tomorrow. Fiona bought basketballs for the Wheelchair basketball team and Sandra bought a few snacks and I bought some spinach and artichoke dip and a baguette for our lunch.

On the way home, we cheered the fact that 22 months after the earthquake, a car that was smashed in the earthquake had finally been removed. It was a reminder every time that we drove past. Oh I’m sure many cars were smashed and I’ve seen them in yards and roadsides but for some reason, that this one is now gone is some how symbolic that everyday changes are happening in the city. News people often report that after year and a half, nothing has changed. I guess it is all in the reporting and what sells. Of course there are changes. Small and big, subtle and in your face changes. Haiti has a new Prime Minister this week. Finally. Maybe, just maybe, we will see more in your face changes.

Future of Haiti

I don't really remember the very first time that I met this very special person but it didn't take us long to become friends. When I was here in 2009 for 6 months, he was often the one I called first when I needed a friend. I returned home in July of that year, and 2 months later, he came to live with my family. He has become a member of our family, easily, comfortably; our son, our brother. His name is Ewald Estanis. He was born in Haiti, March 17, 1985.

This blog is an interview I had with him....I would not be surprised if he became the Prime Minister of Haiti one day.

Where are you from?

I’m from Les Cayes; it’s in the South of Haiti and the third city of the county.

Work back ground? Favorite job?

I’ve been working as Radio Announcer since I was 14; I worked as an operator of data for the Organization of American States, translator for Healing Hands for Haiti and Administrative Assistant for the United Nations in Haiti.

Favorite job was working for the United Nations because of the diversity within the organization.

Where are you now?

Portland, OR - USA

What are you doing?

In school double majoring in Business Management and Law

What are your plans this year?

To take more classes and done with my AA degrees by winter term and finish writing my first book to have it published by summer 2012.

What are your long term plans / goals?

I’m hoping to get some more education and explore possibilities that I can bring back to my country. I will focus on doing business especially international trading with Haiti and other countries especially the US. This will create jobs and help many families to be able to send their children to school. I will also focus on education by looking for way to create a college or university like those in the US. I also have desire to run for office in the future, who knows.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

In 10 years?

In five years, I’ll be working hard to reach my goals. Finding my ways and start my projects.

In 10 years, I see myself as a very successful business and entrepreneur, an instructor and a humble citizen who’s giving back to his community.

How do you like Portland?

I love Portland and it will always be my second home.

How does it compare with Haiti?

Portland is very different from Haiti but in some aspect, they’re similar. PDX is a quiet town and in some ways it reminds me Les Cayes. It has a lot of great things to explore and the people around here are very friendly. The trees in Portland remind me of the south of Haiti and Roses parade reminds me of carnival or Haitian flag day.

What do you miss most about Haiti?

I miss the culture a lot, the people and my family.

What are some of the highlights of your stay in Portland to date?

The education here is very good. Portland is a very clean city and the pollution is totally inferior comparing to many places that I have been.

If you had to leave Portland today, what would you miss the most?

I will miss my second family who’s in Portland. I’ll miss the clean fresh air and all the fun and crazy times (Don’t even want to mention what they are, lol)

If you could choose any place in the world you wanted to visit it would be? Why?

It will probably be Italy especially Venice. I love the Italian culture, the way they dress and the language which I hope to learn in the near future.

If you could choose any place in the world to live it would be? Why?

I would choose my hometown Les Cayes. It’s a quiet city and there’s a lot that can be done in tern of business and investments. It has many opportunities for economic growth and development for the country.

What is your favorite food?

I love Haitian food of course but I really enjoy Italian food around here

What is your least favorite food?

With no offence, I don’t really like Vietnamese food, at least the ones I have tried.

What do you like to do for fun?

Reading, writing, basketball, soccer and going to the gym

What would you like people to know about you?

I’m just what they see. I like going straight to the point. I respect everyone but I’m afraid of no one.

What are you most proud of?

I’m proud of where I come from and my experiences in life because they help me grow with a better perspective about life especially not to take things for granted.

Belo or T-Vice? T-Vice

Wyclef or Sweet Mickey? Wyclef

Favorite non-Haitian music? RnB

Favorite Haitian music? Pou Haiti (Nou 2)

Carnival or Rose Parade Carnival? Carnival

Person you most admire? Why?

It would be my father for the man he was. I’m who I’m just because of him. With his life, he motivates me to always try to do better and never forget where I come from.

Favorite quote?

“The only time you should look down on a person is when you are helping them get up” - Jessie Jackson

Favorite color?

Black but I generally have no preference as soon as it looks good on me.

Favorite clothing?

That’s a hard one, lol… I would say it’s kind of a mix of Haitian, French, Italian and American style.

If you had a million dollars, what would you do with it first, second and third?

1. Keep going to school and give that same opportunity to my siblings

2. Start my business to create jobs in my country and help my family as well

3. Open a language institute for kids in my hometown les Cayes

What do you see as the most important thing Haiti needs to move beyond its current state of being?

I think the most important thing we need for right now to start investing in the youth of this country. We need to educate our children because they represent the future of this nation.

Thank you for answering these questions. Please feel free to add any information that readers would find interesting; thoughts you would like to share.

You are very welcome. Respekte!